The never-ending adventures of a travel writer in Vietnam, Cambodia, New Zealand and throughout the Asia-Pacific region.

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Vietnam's Undisclosed Nuclear Threats Exposed


Sand Dunes at Phuoc Dinh in Ninh Thuan Province, Vietnam, 
where Vietnam's first nuclear power plant will be built by Russia.

Many residents in Vietnam question whether the communist government's plan to build their first two new nuclear power plants (more than a dozen are planned in total for the coming decades) with two countries best known for Chernobyl (Russia) and Fukushima (Japan) is wise.

However, Vietnam officials have repeatedly insisted the technology to be used is both new and safe.

“The design has been assessed by the International Atomic Energy Agency as the most modern and safe technology available at present.” Said Vu Huy Hoan, Minister of Industry and Trade last year.

Some say that the technology to be used isn’t the biggest problem.

“I always say to my Japanese people [regulators and vendors] that it's immoral to export your Japanese reactors to Vietnam. It's a big concern because they do not have the [trained] people," Yi-Bin Chen, director of the Department of Nuclear Regulation at Taiwan's Atomic Energy Council told the Wall Street Journal.

The fishing fleet at Phuoc Dinh, Ninh Thuan, Vietnam.

A number of proposed sites for Vietnam’s new nuclear reactors were strongly considered, including several spots surrounding Mui Ne Beach, before settling on Ninh Thuan Province, in southern Vietnam.

In August 2011, government officials admitted that the two chosen nuclear sights in southern Ninh Thuan Province were near a network of at least 3 fault lines that could “cause earthquakes that could rupture any proposed structures nearby.”

A grade 3 fault line (enough to derail the entire project by IAEA standards) runs from here to the north, spawning numerous geothermal hot springs, some of which have been developed for tourism. The closest is in Tan Son, within 40km of the two nuclear sites.

Last year there was a public panic when a group of ‘mud volcanoes’ erupted in Thuan Bac, only about 20km from the northernmost site. In just four months a group of five mounds, up to 6m tall, and several long trenches formed, spewing an estimate 30,400 tons of volcanic mud.

Within days, authorities pronounced that the phenomenon was not geothermal in nature, even suggesting it be utilized for tourism.

Seaside village at Phuoc Dinh. 
Much of the community will be forcibly relocated by the government 
to make way for the new nuclear reactors.

Earthquakes in the south of Vietnam occur from once every 2 years to several each year, frequently ranging in magnitude from 4.3 to 5.5. While noting that the quakes originate off the coast, officials don’t mention that the active sea volcanoes of Veterans and Ile des Cendres are at the source.

Ile des Cendres, about 150km south of the nuclear sites, erupted violently February 15, 1923, creating 2 small islands, the largest of which was 450m long and rose 30m above sea level.

The eruption, which lasted more than one month, generated a 7.0 Richter scale earthquake and a small tsunami. The blast pummeled some areas of the mainland with volcanic ash and rock. Many homes were destroyed by tremors.

According to a report by the Vietnam Institute of Forestry, the same volcanoes generated tsunamis again in 1960, 1963 and 1991.

Despite all this, in January, Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dung re-affirmed Vietnam’s determination to proceed with the 2 nuclear plants.

The community living in Phuoc Dinh is very poor and has had no say or input in the government's plan to push them out and build a nuclear reactor there. Here a small girl picks through trash along the road in Phuoc Dinh to support her family.

Granted, the two locations are conveniently located near the sea with backs to the mountains, and the immediate areas can easily be sealed off for security or in case of a nuclear disaster. It may also be no coincidence that the nuclear reactors are located near military installations or easily accessible from the deep sea port of Cam Ranh.

Additionally though, it should be noted that these sites are located in the modern (and ancient) homeland of the Cham people, who’s kingdom rivaled the Vietnamese for a thousand years. When something goes wrong, it is the Cham people, by and large, who will pay the price. Though Vietnam has assured the IAEA (in fact it is a program requirement) that it has instituted a program to educate and include the local Cham residents in the development of the country’s nuclear program—many residents and community leaders complain that they have neither been consulted nor directly informed about it.

At times, Vietnam's official documentation on its nuclear program has been very sloppy. Above is a page from a report to the International Atomic Energy Agency (IAEA) for the IAEA Interregional Workshop on Advanced Nuclear Reactor Technology for Near Term Deployment, Vienna, Austria, 4 – 8 July 2011. The bottom-right photo is labeled 'Ninh Thuan Province - Place for the first NPP.' The problem, however, is that the photo is not from Ninh Thuan Province at all. The photo was taken at a famous scenic tourism location in Binh Thuan Province, called Ganh Son. The pictured location is actually a two-hour drive south of the proposed nuclear site in Phuoc Dinh. One may wonder if the IAEA has ever even visited Vietnam's nuclear site locations...?

Friday, May 18, 2012

Kỷ niệm 122 năm ngày sinh Hồ Chí Minh: Celebrating HCM's Birthday With All My Best Ho's

Kỷ niệm 122 năm ngày sinh Chủ tịch Hồ Chí Minh kính yêu.
Hồ Chí Minh: Đẹp Nhất Tên Người.
Celebrating 122 years of the birth of beloved President Ho Chi Minh. Ho Chi Minh: The most beautiful name of all. (A common propaganda banner in Vietnam)


In a country where only one party really matters, or truthfully, only one party is even allowed, Hanoi’s Party Central Committee has charged its Relevant Organs with making sure the birthday party of Hồ Chí Minh, National Saviour, Bringer of Light, the Great Kosher Man-Pickle and Everyone’s Favourite Dead Uncle has a birthday (19 May 1890) that nobody can forget (because they aren’t allowed to).

I’ve been to Uncle Ho’s tomb, where he is laid out under glass; his rubbery flesh preserved with formaldehyde and other noxious chemicals. His shrunken, hollow body cavity is packed with gauze and towels which are changed every autumn. His arms, legs and wings are pinned with little needles, and his scientific name taped underneath… or maybe those were the souvenir insect collections for sale to tourists on Le Loi in Saigon?

Anti-Social Ho. Click here to read the story

It may surprise some that I have a more substantive connection to HCM. In 1910-11 HCM taught at the Du Thanh School in my adopted home town of Phan Thiet. The school is on the grounds of a museum in his honour, which displays  the standard collection of Ho’s typewriter, walking stick, telephone, sandals and other personal items. Amazingly, Ho has deposited identical sets of exclusive items at dozens of museums across the country.

Being a naughty revolutionary,  once the French caught onto him, HCM fled to the US where he worked as a chef at the renowned Park House Hotel in New York. Incidentally, I had family working in the New York luxury hotel scene at the time, though its unknown if they crossed paths with Ho.

After further stints in England, China and Thailand, Ho Chi Minh abandoned his wife (pictured above right), Tang Tuyet Minh (Tăng Tuyết Minh vợ của Chủ tịch Hồ Chí Minh), in Russia after he finally agreed with his communist posse that she was messing up his carefully crafted Virgin Messiah Mojo.

HCM advises on the national epidemic of Blue-eared swine disease. 
Click here to read the story.

When Ho Chi Minh finally returned to Vietnam he led the northern Communists to independence from the French and eventually, after his death, forced the US from the South and captured Saigon. Ho Chi Minh’s ‘National Liberation’ included liberation from freedom of religion, elimination of freedom of speech, renunciation of individual property ownership, rescinding freedom of the press, and liberation from countless other burdensome freedoms.

For the first time in History, Vietnam existed as an ‘independent’ country within the present boundaries (if we ignore the heavy soviet presence early on, or the significant influence exerted by duelling China and the USA more recently).

Ho Chi Minh Trail of the Sea. Click here to read the story

Ho Chi Minh was well aware of the evils of Marxism and he was closely tied to Communist revolutionaries in China, the Soviet Union, North Korea and Laos. Many question whether HCM was really a communist or simply used the ideology as a tool to achieve national independence. Ho was not stupid. He was well aware that he was trading the souls of Vietnam’s generations in order to feed his ego and ensure his own legacy under authoritarian Communism.

Ho Chi Gollum. Click here to read the story


Ho Chi Minh (pictured left in his tomb) died in 1969. Despite the substantial amount of preparation and pre-planning that would have been required to preserve Ho Chi Minh’s body by Soviet specialists, it is alleged that he wished to be cremated. Instead however, he was embalmed like his hero and inspiration, Vladimir Lenin, and other communist dictators of moral fortitude such as Joseph Stalin, Mao Zedong, Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il.


Monday, April 30, 2012

My Liberation Day


Today Vietnam celebrates 'Liberation Day,' a government holiday commemorating the fall of Saigon.

This is one of those weekends where I would always head as far away from the beach as I could to get away from the crowds and the insane traffic (and numerous fatal traffic accidents) in Mui Ne.

No better day to go for a drive out to the countryside, through some minority village, hike into the jungle and pick a swimming hole at one of my many favorite waterfalls. Napping in the stream, I'd wake up to fish nibbling on my toes or a curious giant, purple, freshwater crab poking me to see if I'm alive or not. They are so cute. Lunch is a daypack full of tropical fruit (lychees, mandarin oranges, plums) I bought on the side of the street and some durian pastries and xoi ngot.

The walk back to my motorbike, which I left in the tribal village, would be a race to avoid the afternoon rains. Dark thunder clouds looming and booming. Jungle fowl (wild ancestors of the common chicken) dart across the path and into stands of red flowers. Back in the village some men are BBQ'ing assorted buffalo body parts. There's a tall, decorated bamboo pole with grass ornaments hanging from it. All the men are seated around a jar of ruou can, nearly passed out.

The sun sets as I start my motorbike. For the next 30 minutes I'm pelted with thousands of tiny mosquitos and gnats. Then I get thumped on my chest by a bat that swooped down at just the wrong moment. I stop for a bag of sugar cane juice in Ma Lam, sipping it with a straw as I drive. Back in Phan Thiet its bo bit tet or maybe bun thit nuong on Tuyen Quang street for dinner. Make that 2 bowls. I grab a bag of che bui (pomello pudding, but the English translation doesn't do it justice). No Ice. As I drive I bite a hole in the corner and squeeze the gummy rice pudding, peanuts, coconut milk and pomelo peel in my mouth, being careful not to squirt it all down my front (as I often do).

Up the hill past Thap Po Shanu, the 8th Century Cham towers. A barn owl flies overhead and dumpy little painted frogs crawl across the road. Most of them are squashed by moto drivers before they reach the other side. The night-time pit vipers I used to see on the road almost 10 years ago are all gone now. Eaten by the locals. There's a sweet smell of jasmine in the air and a cool breeze that comes between the rain showers. Choirs of frogs sing in the bushes and on up into the cemetery hill.

Past the old execution site. Ten years ago they used to line up the condemned there in the mornings. Down the hill towards Victoria. There's another dead man there, sprawled in the ditch by his broken motorbike. Drunk and driving too fast... his grey matter will remain there on the road until it is completely washed away by the rain over the coming weeks. The hotel security are there so I keep driving. Down the hill and around the corner. I'm back in Mui ne.

It's late. No crowds, no traffic, no more communist flags. The patriotic music praising Uncle Ho and the Socialist revolution on the market loudspeakers is long over. Just the sounds of rain and frogs into the night. Thats my kind of liberation.

Sunday, April 29, 2012

Ngày Giải Phóng Việt Nam: Remembering Vietnam's Political Prisoners on 'Liberation Day'


Tomorrow Vietnam observes 'Liberation Day' or Ngày Giải Phóng Việt Nam. Families across the country will hang the Vietnam and/or Communist Party flag high (under threat of being fined if they don't) and police will be visiting local businesses (to take obligatory crates of 'free' alcohol and pick up envelops they find that just happen to be full of money). It's particularly ironic this year, that only a week after the shocking government land-grab at Van Giang, the same government will celebrate it's biggest land grab ever, commemorating the day that Saigon fell to the Communists.

I find it hard however, to celebrate this day--as glorious as it may seem to some--knowing that a fellow American--a peaceful, pro-democracy activist--is sitting in a Saigon prison cell, wrongfully accused of 'terrorism' (a common, empty charge Vietnam levels against non-violent, pro-democracy activists). On second thought I can't abide any Vietnamese person in prison for their free speech either. Việt Nam cũng là quê hương của tôi.

So I've decided to spend this holiday weekend remembering all of Vietnam's religious and political detainees held in prisons and re-education camps. There are far too many to list them all; spread across Vietnam's many provinces, but I've highlighted just a few here for your considerate thoughts and prayers:


Nguyen Quoc Quan (Nguyễn Quốc Quân)
Also Known as: Richard Nguyen
Age: 58
Arrested: April 17, 2012
Claim to Fame: Nguyen Quoc Quang is an American Citizen and pro-democracy activist with a PhD in mathematics. He was previously sentenced to 6 months in prison in 2008 for similar pro-democracy activity, which the Vietnam government also labeled ‘terrorism’. He is alleged to be a member of the American, peaceful pro-democracy organization, Viet Tan (Việt Tân). Nguyễn Quốc Quân là nhà đấu tranh cho dân chủ và nhân quyền Việt Nam suốt 3 thập niên qua.
Charges: ‘Terrorism’
Sentence: Currently being held for 4 months during a pending investigation. If he goes to trial he could receive the death penalty.


Bui Thi Minh Hang (Bùi Thị Minh Hằng)
Age: 47
Arrested: November 27, 2012
Claim to Fame: Bui Thi Minh Hang is a peaceful protestor and political activist, focusing on Vietnam-China territorial disputes in the South China Sea (Quần đảo Hoàng Sa và Trường Sa).
Charges: Undeclared
Sentence: 2 Years (without trial) in a re-education camp near Hanoi. State media claims Bui Thi Minh Hang was released early on Saturday, 28 April as part of the government’s clemency tradition for the ‘Liberation Day’ holiday. However friends and family have not heard from her since her alleged release. It is common for the communist government to announce a release of political prisoners, only to introduce new charges at the last minute.


Nguyen Van Hai (Nguyễn Văn Hải)
Age: 60
Pen Name: Dieu Cay (Điếu Cày)
Arrested: April 20, 2008
Claim to Fame: Peaceful protestor and blogger, member of the Club for Free Journalists (Câu lạc bộ Nhà báo Tự do) (may be blocked in Vietnam).
Charges: ‘Crimes Against National Security and Propaganda Against the Socialist Republic’
Sentence: Approximately 4 years served already plus up to 9 additional years in prison expected after impending trial.


Phan Thanh Hai (Phan Thanh Hải)
Age: 43
Pen Name: Anh Ba Sai Gon (Anh Ba Sài Gòn)
Arrested: October 18, 2010
Claim to Fame: Peaceful Protestor and Blogger; member of the Club for Free Journalists (Câu lạc bộ Nhà báo Tự do). Protested Beijing Olympics.
Charges: Conducting propaganda against the state.
Sentence: One and a half years already served, plus up to 16 additional years expected at future trial.


Ta Phong Tan (Tạ Phong Tần)
Age: 44
Arrested: September 5, 2011.
Claim to fame: Ms. Ta Phong Tan is an ex-police officer and communist party member. She is also a freelance journalist and blogger: Justice & Truth (Công Lý Và Sự Thật) (may be blocked in Vietnam). She wrote on corruption, police abuse of power, and illegal land-grabs by the government. She is allegedly a member of the Club for Free Journalists (Câu lạc bộ Nhà báo Tự do).
Charges: Conducting propaganda against the state.
Sentence: Up to 16 additional years expected at a future trial, in addition to time served.


Cu Huy Ha Vu (Cù Huy Hà Vũ)
Convicted: 4 April 2011
Claim to fame: Civil rights lawyer and democracy activist.
Charge: Propaganda against the Socialist Republic of Vietnam.
Sentence: 7 years in prison plus 3 years house arrest.


Le Cong Dinh (Lê Công Định)
Claim to fame: Well known and respected human-rights lawyer and political dissident. He was critical of bauxite mining in the Central Highlands.
Arrested: 13 June 2009
Convicted: 20 January 2010
Charges:  Spreading of subversive propaganda and trying to overthrow the government.
Sentenced: 5 years in prison.


Tran Huynh Duy Thuc (Trần Huỳnh Duy Thức)
Age: 47
Arrested: 24 May 2009
Sentenced: 20 January 2010
Claim to fame: Pro-democracy activist and founder of the OCI internet phone service company.
Sentence: 8 month previous served plus an additional 16 years in prison. Trần Huỳnh Duy Thức là nhà đấu tranh cho dân chủ và nhân quyền Việt Nam.


For more information on human rights abuse in Vietnam see:



Friday, April 27, 2012

NEW VIDEO of Vietnam riot police firing tear gas & flash grenades at Van Giang Villagers

Below is new video of Vietnamese riot police firing tear gas and flash-bang grenades at villagers in Van Giang (Ecopark), outside Hanoi. The incident was part of a massive illegal land-grab earlier this week by the government. See posts below for more information, photos and video.