From Gordon A. in Canada

I received this note today:

"I just spent two weeks in Mui Ne and by far the biggest (only) hassle of the place is constantly being harrassed by moto-taxi drivers. It would be nice to just go for a walk during the day or stagger back to my room after a night out with these buggers chasing me down the street. They have even waited outside Wax bar for me and insulted my female friend by asking how much she was charging for the "ride" home. Had it been at home I would have been obliged to do the manly thing and defend her honour. I would have destroyed the cheeky twerp. I met people in business renting scooters and motos, I vastly preferred getting around on my own. I am thinking of traveling the country by moto. but of course I would have to adjust my plans to return to Mui Ne and Phan Thiet. I simply will not submit to being harrassed by these clowns again."

Unfortunately our current situation with the police pulling over foreigners and confiscating motorbikes will probably only add to the frustration of visitors like Gordon...

Thailand's Troubles - Vietnam's Gain?

Vietnam's tourism doesn't seem to be affected by the world economic downturn so far, but there's been a big looming question regarding what will happen after the holiday reservations have come and gone. Is the Thailand political situation--much like the terrible Tsunami--set to rescue Vietnam from what might otherwise be a very rough patch in the economy? I also just discovered that Siem Reap Airlines, a national airlines of Cambodia, just suspended all domestic and international flights indefinitely this week, the apparent result of an unrelated dispute with the EU. It might be even better for Vietnam if tourists have difficulty traveling in Cambodia.

Police Pulling Over Tourists

The new problem of police pulling over tourists and confiscating their motorbikes in Mui Ne has brought an interesting light on what appears to be a very polarized issue. When I talk to people about the problem, their opinions seem to fall to one extreme or the other--rarely in the middle. Either people seem to feel that all tourists are bad--idiot--drivers, and generally drunken menaces on the road--who deserve to be pulled over and should not be allowed to drive, OR they feel the police should butt out, go back to Phan Thiet and leave the tourists entirely alone. I have yet to find someone, like myself, who feels that police can either A require Vietnam-issued licenses but make the process clear and simple, or B leave the average tourists alone and concentrate on the drunks instead--regardless of whether they be Vietnamese or foreigners.

Regardless of how those of us who are already here may actually feel, one thing is clear. Some tourists want to drive themselves. If they can drive themselves almost anywhere else in SE Asia--including most of Vietnam, but not in Mui Ne, then those independent-minded tourists will avoid Mui Ne until the police give up this silly initiative. I've already received emails from concerned tourists along those lines.

I'd like to propose that rather than the police showing the world just how inhospitable and unwelcoming they can be, we consider a solution that would suit everyone. Instead of pulling tourists over and leaving them stranded in the middle of the beach, the police should set up an office in Mui Ne, clearly marked, where tourists can go in and buy Vietnamese drivers licenses. It could be quick and cheap. There would be a long line of tourists every morning. The police would get their money, the tourists would have their licenses and everyone could go their separate ways happy, legal and relatively safe.

But whether the powers that be are ready for that much transparency and efficiency is another question. Some people stand to profit from this confusing, alienating mess we currently have, and fundamental change would step on some toes.

Birthday Glimpses

Ruou Can in the dunes with friends.

A party at Tinh and Sabine's in Mui Ne (Ham Tien). They make fantastic jewelry with local stones.

Jibes Prevails Despite Surprise Storm

Had another great BBQ dinner at Jibes last night. Food and atmosphere were great and a good crowd despite a nasty little storm that came up out of nowhere.


Jibes is creatively decorated with stylish lights.

Part of the spread.

BBQ shrimp, fish, pork ribs, skewers, chicken, spring rolls and more...

A portion of the crowd.

Hoa Vien Disappoints

I'd grown to enjoy the new Hoa Vien Brauhaus in Ham Tien (Mui Ne). The food is overpriced, but the beer is good.

Last night I went back however, and has an opinion-changing experience. Before I even sat down, the waiters swarmed me--4 of them--demanding orders before I was even seated. There was no opportunity to browse the menu or even think for a moment about what I might like. Just lots of waiter fingers shuffling the menu and shouting out what they wanted me to order.

I placed my order, got my drinks, but 15 minutes later a waiter passed the table, laughing, telling me the grilled scallops I ordered would be another 30 minutes. Not so funny. I'd come to look forward to their scallops--so much so that I was not afraid to lick the shells clean. Not so with these nasty little scuppers. They were 1/3 the normal size, burned, dried out, poorly seasoned, and devoid of their toppings, other than a few nasty little pork rinds.

I asked the waiters why the food was so bad. I simply got excuses and they told me I simply wasn't "hungry enough" or haven't "had enough beer." Yes, perhaps they are right--that IS the problem. If I were starving and drunk I might enjoy the food more.

I spoke to one of the supervisors, who took my complaints in writing, and said he would adjust the bill, yet when the bill came, not only was it NOT discounted, but it also contained the customary false charges of things like moist towellets and peanuts.

Then there's the matter of the VIP card I've twice been promised and not received...

Want to Help?

As of this year I have co-written or updated 5 of the world's top 10 guidebooks on Vietnam, and contributed to 2 other books on Indochina as well. It's been exciting running around and getting all the latest travel info for each edition, but I'm always happy for suggestions. If you've found information that is out-of-date in any guidebook that you happen to use, or have a suggestion/tip of your own, please feel free to post it here or send me an email. :-)

Hidden Binh Thuan with Mr. Binh

I followed Binh, of Mr. Binh's Sahara Tours, up into the mountains to observe a "Buffalo Stabbing Festival" at a Chu Ru village this weekend, just across the border into Lam Dong Province.



Looking south to Binh Thuan Province.



A herd of water buffalo.



Bao Dai Falls from above.



Bao Dai Falls from below.



The ceremonial pole where the buffalo is tied when it is sacrificed.


Your can meet Mr. Binh at 81 Huynh Thuc Khang in Ham Tien (Mui Ne Beach) or call him at 098 929 7648.

Poor Service as Usual: WAKE UP Mui Ne Hotels!

I went to one of Mui Ne's largest and most well-known hotels twice this week to meet someone on official business. Both times the receptionist refused to help me by calling the person I came to meet or by leaving a message for that person--even though the person I wanted to meet works at the hotel. The receptionist did so purely out of laziness. When will these hotels learn? It's not like there are only half-a-dozen resorts in Mui Ne any more. There is serious competition on the beach, and hotels with terrible service are going to fail--no matter how well connected their owners may be to the government, mafia or some rich and powerful person--and deservedly so.

New Menu in the Forest

A new menu has been unveiled at the Forest Restaurant in Mui Ne.

Most of the cuisine is seafood and fine dining, but the most interesting new addition are the scorpions

The appendages are crunchy. Scorpions have no inherent flavor of their own.

The abdomen is soft but dry. There's no squishy guts.

A full spread of new dishes: Lobster head hotpot (lots of meat), friend squid, shrimp and fish, lobster salad and more.

The crickets are quite nice. Like the scorpions, not much flavor of their own, but good with spiced powder or dipping sauce.

Russians really like eating fresh turtles.

Great Evening at Jibes BBQ

I had a great time at the Jibes BBQ last night (Saturday 8pm). I left completely stuffed on all the delicious food. Beef, chicken, shrimp, squid, fish, skewers and more than I could possibly get on my plate. Highly recommend it. These photos really don't do the romantic beach setting justice but I hope it gives some indication of what you'll find.




Check out the Jibes/Full Moon website at www.windsurf-vietnam.com

Announcing Fish Egg Tree Tours

Brought to you by MuiNeBeach.net and the co-author of numerous international guidebooks on Vietnam, Fish Egg Tree Tours is the only tour company exclusively covering Binh Thuan province with knowledgeable guides, fluent in English, who teach you about local history, culture & ecology. Unlike other local tour companies, we are not a mere taxi service! You will learn about Mui Ne, Phan Thiet and the surrounding area from your accompanying guide, and you will have fun doing it! tours include: 3 minorities in 1 day; eat your way around Phan Thiet; ancient temples of Phan Thiet; mountain trekking & nature hikes; sand dunes; Ta Cu Mountain and Khe Ga Lighthouse. Classes Include: minority handicrafts; cooking Phan Thiet delicacies. Custom tours available to suite every need. Please contact us or call 090.443.4895 for more information.

Theft by Open Tour Companies

I've received reports that some major Open Tour Bus companies servicing Mui Ne have told their customers that they can not sit with their valuables--that they must put them under the bus--then later parters of the bus attendants are going through their bags and robbing passengers. Likewise I've recently heard about customers falling asleep on the bus and getting robbed.

Never, under an circumstance, put your valuables(electronics, money, etc.) in the compartments under the bus. Any attendant that instructs you to do so is saying this with the sole intent of robbing you. This has never been standard practice in any company. Likewise, keep track of your valuables at all time. Don't fall asleep with valuables out of your reach.

In an unrelated matter, I've received report of another theft which was reported to local police, but the police refused to file a report out of sheer laziness-despite the fact that the victim had accurately collected the names, passport number, hotel and even flight information of the criminal! More information on this exceptional case soon...

The point being, if you do happen to get robbed, unfortunately you are on your own. The local police will not help you.

Flowers of Binh Thuan Province

In the Dry Season, much of coastal Binh Thuan Province is a desert wasteland. During the rainy season however, the desert blooms.



These flowers are commonly found growing up bushes and trees in the scrublands.



These flowers are found along the ground, typically at the base of other bushes.



I'm told the orange blooms of this flower are edible--and sweeter than sugar cane.



These fragrant flowers attract lots of flies and bees



On the inside, this wild fruit, which grows on mountain slopes, looks much like a longan, but on the outside, like a small orange. I've been given conflicting reports on whether it is edible or not.



This large flower grows plentifully on wooded hillsides.

Halloween Parties in Mui Ne

Admittedly I'm a party-pooper. I don't hang out at the backpacker bars and the kiteboarding hangouts. It's not why I'm here, and for me, it's not what Mui Ne/Phan Thiet is all about. But I recognize for that many tourists, it is the heart of their stay here.

Likewise, I'm not a fan of Halloween. However, I was curious about the parties some of the bars were putting on, and how much turn-out they might have. Wax had a great atmosphere, but the party at Pogo was most impressive--there was a packed crowd with great dance music. Wax would have been nice but I have two complaints--there's no food on the menu, and I don't like paying before I drink.

The Following Photos are from Pogo:








Fire Dancer at Wax:


See more at www.MuiNeBeach.net