Sunday, August 30, 2009
Don't Drink and Drive
In an apparent response to a long line of gruesome road accidents with fatalities, there are now a series of banners with propaganda about safe driving practices ranging from "Don't drink rice wine or beer and then drive" to "Don't drive with 3 people on a motorbike." These are nice sentiments given the September 2 holiday is around the corner--and is a time when there are normally lots of accidents due to drunk and careless driving. However, a few traffic police on the street, watching for these violations, would probably be more effective.
Wednesday, August 26, 2009
Literate in Cham
As of today, after just less than a month of study, I'm proud to say I can read Cham script. I'm one of not only a small handful of foreigners who can read Cham (the others probably all PhD students), but a small group of people who can read it at all. The benefits? Along with further vocabulary comprehension, this allows me to read signs, inscriptions, steles and histories for myself, without having to take someone else's word that the translations are accurate (usually they are not). It gives me an invaluable insight into the Cham culture and history that I could have no other way.
Vietnam Visa Clampdown?
I've received several reports of Vietnam Immigration declining to renew (or issue new) 6-month multiple-entry business visas. These are the mainstay of retired expats and expats working freelance or temporary/seasonal jobs.
This follows a clampdown earlier in January, when Vietnam Immigration limited the number of people receiving 1-year visas (residence permits).
It will be interesting to see how this plays out. It may mean the revival of the old-fashioned expat visa-runs to Phnom Penh. This was the common practice before I arrived in Vietnam. Visa processing became easier in 2003/2004 and such trips became unnecessary when most tour companies and bus-ticket sellers could arrange new visas.
Why Vietnam would clamp down on visas is unclear. Expats are not taking jobs away from Vietnamese (if anything they are merely doing the jobs that local workers are unable to do because of a lack of skills) and they are not benefiting from any social programs here (non-existent though they may be). Likewise, expats are pumping money into the economy via their living expenses and other purchases.
This follows a clampdown earlier in January, when Vietnam Immigration limited the number of people receiving 1-year visas (residence permits).
It will be interesting to see how this plays out. It may mean the revival of the old-fashioned expat visa-runs to Phnom Penh. This was the common practice before I arrived in Vietnam. Visa processing became easier in 2003/2004 and such trips became unnecessary when most tour companies and bus-ticket sellers could arrange new visas.
Why Vietnam would clamp down on visas is unclear. Expats are not taking jobs away from Vietnamese (if anything they are merely doing the jobs that local workers are unable to do because of a lack of skills) and they are not benefiting from any social programs here (non-existent though they may be). Likewise, expats are pumping money into the economy via their living expenses and other purchases.
Monday, August 24, 2009
Rice Cake Candy in Phan Thiet
This family in Phan Thiet makes the candies by hand, in their 200-year-old house.
Candies dry and firm up in the sun for a few hours before packing.
Packaged candies are sent out all over Phan Thiet and other cities including Saigon and Dalat.
These candies can be purchased at Binh Thuan Authentic and tours to see these and other local crafts in Binh Thuan Province (Bee Keeping, Cham Textiles and Pottery, Hilltribe basket weaving) are available through Fish Egg Tree Tours. For tours, contact 094.431.3287 or email us through Mui Ne Beach.net.
The "Imphementation" of Ho Chi Minh's Testament
This Viet-nenglish sign in Phan Thiet advertises a museum exhibit today, celebrating the prosperity of Vietnam under Uncle Ho's Vision. It's curious what message they intend to send us, given the fact that there is no actual exhibit today, nor is the museum planned to open any time soon...
Bear Grylls Vietnam Episode
The following four clips are for Bear's upcoming show (premiering 8/26 at 9PM ET/PT) in Vietnam. I was in talks with Discovery Channel reps about interviewing Bear for the episode, but unfortunately none of my publishers showed much interest in publishing the interview.
Sunday, August 23, 2009
Pogo Charity Event
Last night Pogo hosted a charity buffet and dance party to benefit the Friends of Blind People's Association and The Classes of the Heart (to finance construction of two classrooms for disadvantaged children in Long Son school in Mui Ne Village). The event looked to be a big success.
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Hon Rom is for Whores
Everybody knows Hon Rom is Mui Ne's red light district. Ever since the first whore-house... er... resort opened up 5 or 6 years ago, horny Saigonese businessmen, Koreans and single white guys would head up there to see the "ladies." As long as the smut stayed way up there on the little cape where we didn't have to see it, no one seemed to care.
Now things are different. If you are a foreign male, try walking around anywhere in Mui ne at night, and you'll be bombarded by shouting motorbike drivers:
"LADY-MASSAGE! BOOM-BOOM! (code-words for prostitutes) BIEN NAM-HON ROM! (one of the most popular whore-houses) MARIJUANA! (be thankful this isn't saigon--they opening less much harder drugs)"
I guess we males can be thankful that we aren't females though--all they get are sexual slurs and genitals flashed in their faces by the motorbike drivers.
Bien Nam, Tien Trang and the other dumps in Hon Rom are all synonymous with prostitution but unfortunately it no longer stays there. Mui Ne's motorbike drivers bring them down to Mui Ne to service tourists on-site and now and we have lost our family atmosphere.
Why do we have to be just like Nha Trang and Vung Tau? Don't you people--you motorbike drivers, your bar and guesthouse owners, you resort and restaurant managers--don't you know when you sell these young women that you are selling your daughters, your sisters, your own mother? How would you like your own daughter to become a prostitute? It may surprise some of you to know they already are...
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
Mui Ne Roads Not Safe, and Neither Are the Busses
I just talked with some tourists last night that complained their open tour bus abandoned them out in the middle of nowhere--the hot desert in the full heat of the day. They road the Hanh Cafe bus and requested several times to be dropped off at the Canary Resort, which the company repeatedly promised to do. Instead however, the bus left Mui ne and went back out to the highway. When the tourists pressed the driver, an argument ensued and the driver allegedly threw them out onto the highway. They tourists were left to find their own way--40km--back to Canary. I have spoken with the Hanh Cafe office and they believe the story may in fact be true, though they are waiting to speak with the driver to hear his side of the story.
Meanwhile, yesterday I waiting on the street for the bus with some friends who are members of a highlands minority. We were waiting for the Suoi Cat bus that runs from Mui ne to Phan Thiet. When the bus stopped my friends asked if the bus was going to Phan Thiet. The driver said yes, so we quick hugged and then they jumped into the doorway----only to be pushed back out, the door pulled shut, and the bus sped off----only half-full. It appears Suoi Cat hates dark-skinned minorities.
Later that night while drinking with some friends near my room, one of them, who lived up on the new highway from Mui ne village to Sea links, told me something horrible but nonetheless expected. On the new road, at the exit leading to the Ham Tien (Rang) market, there have already been 4 deadly accidents since the road opened just a few months ago. 4 lives lost for no reason... and this is only 1 of 4 intersections on the road.
Premier resort destination for the entire country--so why do we continue to operate like a inept third-world backwater?
Meanwhile, yesterday I waiting on the street for the bus with some friends who are members of a highlands minority. We were waiting for the Suoi Cat bus that runs from Mui ne to Phan Thiet. When the bus stopped my friends asked if the bus was going to Phan Thiet. The driver said yes, so we quick hugged and then they jumped into the doorway----only to be pushed back out, the door pulled shut, and the bus sped off----only half-full. It appears Suoi Cat hates dark-skinned minorities.
Later that night while drinking with some friends near my room, one of them, who lived up on the new highway from Mui ne village to Sea links, told me something horrible but nonetheless expected. On the new road, at the exit leading to the Ham Tien (Rang) market, there have already been 4 deadly accidents since the road opened just a few months ago. 4 lives lost for no reason... and this is only 1 of 4 intersections on the road.
Premier resort destination for the entire country--so why do we continue to operate like a inept third-world backwater?
Friday, August 14, 2009
Northwest Binh Thuan Province I
I took a 3-day, 2-night trip this week through the Northwestern Loop of Binh Thuan Province (the province where I live). The Road goes North from Phan Thiet, through the mountains and west to meet a smaller 100-km loop around Duc Linh and Tanh Linh, then south to Highway 1A, and east back to Phan Thiet.
The climate in this region is markedly different from Phan Thiet and south/southeastern Binh Thuan Province. This area gets much more rain, and thus the scenery is lush are green.
While the road north of Phan Thiet briefly goes through Cham territory, the mountain foothills are largely inhabited by Rag Lai people, a cousin tribe to the Cham. The mountains are firmly held by the K'ho people--the same folks who originally inhabited Da Lat. Further west at Tanh Linh, the area is inhabited by the Rai people, apparently a sub group of the Gia Ray/Jarai who live much further North.
This is Part 1 of 3 posts.
K'ho man weaving baskets. Not exactly a friendly fellow, but he permitted this photo.
An unfortunate baby short-tailed Macaque, in captivity a month already. He was stolen from his wild mother and awaits a buyer. He is likely to die soon after becoming an adult, when he isn't as cute. Vietnamese (when really most people) tend to abuse monkeys in captivity, and they get diseases and suffer malnutrition.
Traditional K'ho home. THe house is made with a bamboo frame on wooden stilts. The walls are woven mats and the roof tightly woven fronds.
Large tree frocks occupy the niche held by geckos in the lowlands. They live in homes and eat up the bugs.
One of the countless dams in northern Binh Thuan, used to generate electricity.
The climate in this region is markedly different from Phan Thiet and south/southeastern Binh Thuan Province. This area gets much more rain, and thus the scenery is lush are green.
While the road north of Phan Thiet briefly goes through Cham territory, the mountain foothills are largely inhabited by Rag Lai people, a cousin tribe to the Cham. The mountains are firmly held by the K'ho people--the same folks who originally inhabited Da Lat. Further west at Tanh Linh, the area is inhabited by the Rai people, apparently a sub group of the Gia Ray/Jarai who live much further North.
This is Part 1 of 3 posts.
K'ho man weaving baskets. Not exactly a friendly fellow, but he permitted this photo.
An unfortunate baby short-tailed Macaque, in captivity a month already. He was stolen from his wild mother and awaits a buyer. He is likely to die soon after becoming an adult, when he isn't as cute. Vietnamese (when really most people) tend to abuse monkeys in captivity, and they get diseases and suffer malnutrition.
Traditional K'ho home. THe house is made with a bamboo frame on wooden stilts. The walls are woven mats and the roof tightly woven fronds.
Large tree frocks occupy the niche held by geckos in the lowlands. They live in homes and eat up the bugs.
One of the countless dams in northern Binh Thuan, used to generate electricity.
Northwest Binh Thuan Province II
Typical rural bridge. Cross at your own risk...
Da Mi Lake, a source for much of Binh Thuan's drinking water and electricity. While still relatively clear, it wasn't as clear as my last visit, and I fear this may be due to the growing fish farm in the middle of the lake.
The unpaved roads from the mountains down to Ta Bao and Duc Linh were exciting. As they wove their way through the uninhabited jungle, we had to get off and push the motorbike through mud more times than we could count.
Mountain rivers are full this time of year, during rainy season.
Northwestern Binh Thuan, around Tanh Linh and Duc Linh, is one of the most Christian areas I have ever visited in Vietnam. There were numerous Protestant and Catholic churches, and rarely a pagoda to be seen.
Tanh Linh is a major Brick production area. Sadly this has also made it rather hot and dusty. The roads in this little segment of the loop are rather bad due to all the big trucks that come in and out all day long.
Northwest Binh Thuan Province III
Reminder that I'm posting this in reverse order as it makes more sense for reading, so go to the top post (yet to be written as I write this) to read an explanation.
Bee keepers in Tanh Linh. The bees feed on the pollen of cashew flowers, giving the honey a distinctly bright, lemony flavor.
Tree fronds drying to be used later to make woven mats. The mats have been traditionally used to make the walls of homes.
A wild monkey in Nui Ong Nature Preserve begs for food. Ironically, it was not his friendly, submissive behavior that interested me, but rather the compassionate behavior of the Vietnamese people feeding me him. I've seen people interact with monkeys countless times, but this is the first time I have seen a large group of Vietnamese NOT abuse or hurt a monkey when they encounter them.
Thach Ba in Nui Ong Nature Reserve is one of the largest waterfalls in Binh Thuan Province. It's a bit far from Phan Thiet though, as it took us 4-5hrs to get here.
Unfortunately the locals take no pride in the national park. While Thach Ba itself is lovely, there is so much garbage around all the rocks that it makes sitting down unpleasant.
I wildlife trafficer proudly shows off a monitor lizard and other wild animals that he illegally serves in his local restaurant--all poached in the national park.
Other Blog Post on Nui Ong National Park.
Summary of the park at MuiNeBeach.net.
So ends my 3-day and 2-night loop through Northwestern Binh Thuan Province.
Bee keepers in Tanh Linh. The bees feed on the pollen of cashew flowers, giving the honey a distinctly bright, lemony flavor.
Tree fronds drying to be used later to make woven mats. The mats have been traditionally used to make the walls of homes.
A wild monkey in Nui Ong Nature Preserve begs for food. Ironically, it was not his friendly, submissive behavior that interested me, but rather the compassionate behavior of the Vietnamese people feeding me him. I've seen people interact with monkeys countless times, but this is the first time I have seen a large group of Vietnamese NOT abuse or hurt a monkey when they encounter them.
Thach Ba in Nui Ong Nature Reserve is one of the largest waterfalls in Binh Thuan Province. It's a bit far from Phan Thiet though, as it took us 4-5hrs to get here.
Unfortunately the locals take no pride in the national park. While Thach Ba itself is lovely, there is so much garbage around all the rocks that it makes sitting down unpleasant.
I wildlife trafficer proudly shows off a monitor lizard and other wild animals that he illegally serves in his local restaurant--all poached in the national park.
Other Blog Post on Nui Ong National Park.
Summary of the park at MuiNeBeach.net.
So ends my 3-day and 2-night loop through Northwestern Binh Thuan Province.
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Whiskey Mountain
Whiskey, or "Big Titty" Mountain is well known to the American Soldiers who were stationed at the LZ Betty in Phan Thiet. A Helicopter Landing Pad was stationed at the top, where at least one serious crash occurred. The mountain now hosts communications towers and is cut away at the base by several unsightly quarries. Seen here from the town of Ma Lam, north of Phan Thiet.
Why We Die
Four days after 3 separate accidents in Mui Ne reportedly left 3 people dead, locals drivers continue to drive at high speeds on the wrong side of the road, through pools of dried blood that remain on the street.
I was surprised to hear from locals today that the accident this week in front of Victoria Resort was not the only one to take place that day. According to sources, another girl was killed in Mui Ne Village in a separate accident with another motorbike, just three days before her scheduled wedding. A third person was killed, according to sources, in a separate accident in Hon Rom that day as well.
A story is now circulating that the dead driver in the first accident (in front of Victoria) was somehow at fault for driving too fast (up an incline?) and driving in the wrong lane (yet somehow leaving his blood on the outside of his own lane).
The roads around Mui ne continue to be a hazard as motor vehicle operators drive on the wrong side of the road at high speeds--and often while intoxicated. In just a few minutes of waiting at two blind spots (one in front of Hoa Vien and another in front of Victoria), I snapped these photos of drivers on the wrong side of the road at high speeds.
Who are the worst offenders? Often it's Suoi Cat city busses, Rang Dong dump trucks, Open Tour Busses of all companies, Resort busses carrying staff to and from Phan Thiet, and Mai Linh taxis... in other words, just about everybody.
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Strange Developments
By some standards, this new hotel may be Mui Ne's first high-rise building, at 11 floors (if we can believe the architect's rendering on the sign). I thought there was a regulation that no building could be higher than the tallest coconut trees, but apparently, if that ever was a regulation, it has gone out the window. It looks like it will be a nice building. No doubt this will be the start of a new trend in development for the beach.
New construction in the middle of the beach. Looks to be a seafood stand perhaps. I was always told this stretch belonged to the government, to be administrated as a park, but apparently this was or is no longer true. Seafood canteens have begun sprouting up in this area. The secret of their popularity is not only good food, but cheap food. A few smart folks finally learned that if you don't make foreigners pay more than locals, you actually get more customers.
Am I too Negative?
From time to time I get feedback about the large number of negative posts in my blog and at www.muinebeach.net. I think it's a fair issue to raise. Naturally local businesses have an interest in balance, and a desire to see more positive than negative. Too much negativity can drive tourists away.
My decision to post negative stories, which unfortunately can be rather frequent, comes from a desire to see Mui Ne (and the greater Binh Thuan Province) develop into the very best place it can be. By drawing attention to problem items, I hope to affect change in positive directions to solve problems I see on a repeated basis. Unless light is cast on these subjects, there are few other forces present to apply the pressure necessary to make a difference. I'm conscious of the influence my blog and website has in this community by informing tourists, expats, and to a lesser extent the locals, and it is thus my goal to use this influence as a catalyst for improving the community.
I do post news items on festivals and positive news items when they become apparent, as well as cultural items when I have time to go exploring. The problem is though that I’m only one person, with lots of other things to do as well. I don’t have the time it takes to go out and create new positive human interest stories several times a week. Negative is always easiest to report in any medium because it sticks out like a sore thumb. I’m always happy to print stories people send me, as well as announcements, as long as they fit with the theme of the website and aren’t entirely self-promotional. Unfortunately it’s very rare that anyone does. When I hear or read someone praising a business or some aspect in Mui Ne, I always beg them to send me a note so I can post it, but they never ever do. I do get occasional negative ones though. I’ve tried to make connections with the government tourism department in Phan Thiet so I can post their announcements and stories—all for free—but they just aren’t interested. I’m really frustrated by that as my goal is merely to help the area. So, I’ve always been a lone wolf in this endeavor. If you come up with any stories, announcements or hear about anything someone or some business might be doing to help/contribute to the community, please do send them to me. If it fits the general criteria, I’ll be happy to post it here or on www.muinebeach.net.
My decision to post negative stories, which unfortunately can be rather frequent, comes from a desire to see Mui Ne (and the greater Binh Thuan Province) develop into the very best place it can be. By drawing attention to problem items, I hope to affect change in positive directions to solve problems I see on a repeated basis. Unless light is cast on these subjects, there are few other forces present to apply the pressure necessary to make a difference. I'm conscious of the influence my blog and website has in this community by informing tourists, expats, and to a lesser extent the locals, and it is thus my goal to use this influence as a catalyst for improving the community.
I do post news items on festivals and positive news items when they become apparent, as well as cultural items when I have time to go exploring. The problem is though that I’m only one person, with lots of other things to do as well. I don’t have the time it takes to go out and create new positive human interest stories several times a week. Negative is always easiest to report in any medium because it sticks out like a sore thumb. I’m always happy to print stories people send me, as well as announcements, as long as they fit with the theme of the website and aren’t entirely self-promotional. Unfortunately it’s very rare that anyone does. When I hear or read someone praising a business or some aspect in Mui Ne, I always beg them to send me a note so I can post it, but they never ever do. I do get occasional negative ones though. I’ve tried to make connections with the government tourism department in Phan Thiet so I can post their announcements and stories—all for free—but they just aren’t interested. I’m really frustrated by that as my goal is merely to help the area. So, I’ve always been a lone wolf in this endeavor. If you come up with any stories, announcements or hear about anything someone or some business might be doing to help/contribute to the community, please do send them to me. If it fits the general criteria, I’ll be happy to post it here or on www.muinebeach.net.
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Another Dead on the Road
As I came back from Phan Thiet I saw a long patch of smeared blood puddles in the Road. Just up the hill from Victoria a dump truck killed yet another motorbike driver. The truck was driving on the wrong side of the road--as usual--and by the very long, bloody tire tracks, they were going very, very fast. I pulled over to the side of the road to examine the blood and lone shoe. As I stood there, 3 busses came bounding in my lane--the wrong side of the road (for them) at high speeds and nearly sideswiped me. Just another in a long line of past and future fatalities.
UPDATE: According to witnesses, the driver who killed the boy driving the motorbike attempted to flee but was detained by onlookers and Victoria security until the police arrived. The identity of the driver and victim are unknown to me at this time.
Saturday, August 1, 2009
Review of Lonely Planet Vietnam 2009
INTRO
In the interest of full disclosure, I should state that I have worked for many of Lonely Planet’s competitors. I have nothing directly to gain from commenting on their work, other than perhaps the future possibility of working with them, depending upon whether my review angers or pleases them.
The guidebook industry finds itself in a precarious situation. The large volume of free, up-to-the-minute information available on the web has taken an increasingly large bite out of the guidebook industry's profits every year. With the world economic crisis in 2008/2009, the tourism markets crashed in many countries. Guidebook publishers bore a considerable burden as prospective travelers decided to stay home this year and didn't buy as many guidebooks. Thus many publishers have had to figure out how to do more with less. For some this meant smaller, trimmed-down books, delayed new editions, or merely paying authors less (which is risky because it can mean lower-quality output).
I noted this week that the new edition of Lonely Planet Vietnam 2009 was now available, at least in theory. The new books have yet to make an appearance here in Mui Ne, so I decided to purchase the PDF version of the Central Vietnam chapter (which includes Mui Ne), and thus get a short preview of the new book.
I’ve mainly looked at the entries that fall under my own Binh Thuan Province. I have to state that I am rather disappointed with Lonely Planet’s revisions. The write-up for locations in my area, namely Phan Thiet and Mui Ne, are nearly the same as the previous edition, if not slightly trimmed down, though there are a number of new hotels and restaurants listed. This is in opposition to the massive boom in new development in the area since the last edition in 2007. Mui ne has become Vietnam’s largest resort area, now just as relevant to tourism as destinations like Nha Trang and Dalat. Yet LP has not treated the area in this regard.
Due to an email from one of the writers that happened to be widely circulated across Vietnam (the writer requested to meet with locals and expats who could offer tips), I happen to know that the writers were here in Vietnam in October and November of 2008. Therefore, I have made my comments in light of the fact that they rightly would not be aware of developments from December 2008 until the present.
Many thanks once again to LP’s recommendation of my website, www.muinebeach.net, in this new guidebook edition.
Unfortunately it is hard to offer a lot of compliments to this new edition because, as previously stated, there are no new significant additions, other than a few more hotels and resorts for Mui Ne. In fact the number of bars and nightlife options have been cut back, even though many more venues are now available.
CA NA AND VINH HAO
Ca Na and Vinh Hao are minor stopping points on Highway 1A between Mui Ne and Nha Trang. Even for Vietnamese these are fairly insignificant from a tourism perspective. As Lonely Planet decided to include them, they would have been better justified by also mentioning the marine reserve around nearby Hon Cau Island, with its Cham Fisherman’s Temple, as well as the nearby ancient Cham towers and Cham cemetery. As LP neglected to mention them, it really would have been better just to cut these two locations out and allow more space to Phan Thiet and Mui Ne.
As a side, while I have no evidence to refute LP’s claim that Cham princes hunted elephants, rhinos and tigers, I remain skeptical of this information.
MUI NE
Sights in Mui Ne
Fairy Springs: LP continues to make reference to rock formations, however there are none here (except for a small patch of rocks you climb over at the start)—everything else is merely tightly compressed sand.
Thap Po Shanu Cham Towers: These towers are from the 8th century, not the 9th, as stated by LP. Also, practically speaking, there are no opening hours for the towers (the times listed are merely when an attendant collects entrance fees—but there is no gate).
Lizard Fishing
This is an interesting box, however one point is incorrect—the lizards caught by locals are not members of the gecko family. While it’s a nice entry, I can’t help but wonder why LP focused on this minor point, rather than something more poignant like the local whale cults or our magnificent festivals.
Erosion
LP notes the erosion issues in Mui Ne, though incorrectly implies this is a problem for most of the beach. They also fail to mention this is a seasonal issue, and that the sand returns a few months later. Additionally, none of the resorts, to my knowledge, have used sand bags in the last 2-3 years, though some have built retention walls. One problem they should have mentioned but did not, is the crisis we currently have with pollution on the beach.
Getting Around
• LP failed to mention the new highway behind the beach (linking Mui Ne Village proper to Sea Links Golf Course), though this is not yet a crucial point.
• A fatal flaw: LP fails to mention that we have a train station in Phan Thiet, with direct-to-Saigon service—something that has been available since the end of 2005.
• LP’s travel times are wrong. For example, the travel time to Saigon is 5-6hrs, not 4. Likewise, the prices are a little over-inflated.
• LP recommends renting a motorbike in Mui Ne, but fails to mention that Mui Ne is one of the few places in Vietnam where police regularly confiscate motorbikes driven by foreigners without a Vietnam driver’s license.
Information and Maps
I’ve repeatedly sent Lonely Planet corrections, since the 2005 edition, but they have failed to correct several significant mistakes on the map.
• The Mui Ne map is not to scale. The Cham Towers should actually fall outside the bounds of the map. Phan Thiet is a few more kilometers farther than stated, and Highway 1A is about four times the distance written. Likewise, on the other end, the White Sand Dunes are about 30km away, not 5 (and the red sand dunes are less than 1km).
• In the middle of the map, a road leads off into the countryside, with a note stating it leads to a lake, 20km to the north. However, no such lake exists. In fact, this road leads out into the desert and isn’t advisable for tourists to head out here due to the lack of water or folks selling petrol.
• The sea is labeled the “South China Sea.” While in the grand scheme of things from a western perspective, this may be somewhat true, it would be more appropriate to give it the Vietnamese designation, the “Bay of Phan Thiet.”
• A small point, but our main post office is not in Mui Ne Village proper, as listed. Instead, it is located near the Ham Tien (Rang) market in the middle of the beach. The main provincial post office is located in Phan Thiet, near the Central market.
Kiteboarding
LP got the windy season wrong. They write that it’s August to December, but it’s actually the winter—roughly November through March or even later. Likewise, they got the rainy season wrong, which actually starts as early as May and goes as late as November (most of the time) rather than June through September.
A telling mistake is the listing for the closed outfit “Airwaves” at the sailing Club. Airwave closed prior to the last guidebook edition, but since the writers have not visited the Sailing Club, they were apparently unaware. The new establishment operating at the Sailing Club is called “Storm,” run by the very capable Scott Soothill.
Activities: Major Omissions
At the end of last summer, Sea Links Golf Course, the largest development Binh Thuan Province has yet seen, had its soft opening, well before the LP writers began their research. Additionally, Sea Links happily provided tours of the grounds to interested parties long before that. The omission of Sea Links is really an inexcusable error as it has helped to redefine Mui Ne as not just a water sports destination, but now a major golf destination. Its influence has lead to 3 new mini golf courses already, and at least one more proposed 18-hole course further down the beach.
As Vietnam’s Number One resort destination, it is mystifying why LP would neglect to list a single Spa, with so many up and down the beach now. This is another inexcusable error.
Accommodation
• We’ve actually dropped our own listing of Hai Yen Guesthouse, so the web address (on our website) listed by LP is incorrect.
• Kim Hong sold Vietnam-Austria House to new owners, so the email address listed by LP is no longer correct. They imply the pool is somehow new, but it’s always been there.
• Wind Champ Resort just lost its kiteboarding center (mentioned by LP), though Wax bar remains.
• The reference to Mellow being on the “wrong (nonbeach) side of town” is a bit unfair and misleading. It would have been better to simply state it’s across the street from the beach, and thus doesn’t have its own beachfront.
• Bon Bien resort has been around for the two previous editions of the book, so it is not actually a new resort, as stated.
• LP incorrectly tells readers to ignore the name “Victory Phan Thiet Beach Resort” because “it’s not really in Phan Thiet” (implying that the area LP refers to as “Mui ne” is somehow not part of Phan Thiet). However, this is untrue, as all of the accommodations listed are located in Wards of Phan Thiet City.
• LP incorrectly lists Pandanus as “further afield” from Mui Ne. In Fact, this is the only resort listed by LP that is technically located in Mui Ne Village. All other resorts (with the exception of the next resort I’ll discuss) are actually located in the Wards of Ham Tien and Phu Hai, not Mui Ne Village.
• LP incorrectly lists Princess d’Annam resort under Mui Ne, in the further afield section. In fact, it is located within the confined of Phan Thiet City (and more than 1hr from Mui Ne), albeit about 30km south of downtown.
Eating
• One can only wonder what the writers were thinking when they designated Hoa Vien Brauhaus as a Lonely Planet favorite. Good draft beers and a great view it does have, but it is also notorious for bad food and even worse service. It would have been an appropriate bar recommendation, but not as a dining venue.
• On the other end of bad decision-making is LP’s choice to list Shree Ganesh at the end in the “other category.” This member of Vietnam’s renowned Omar’s Indian restaurant chain is arguably one of the best dining options on the beach. It should have made the top of the list.
• Other slighted favorites overlooked by LP include: The Forest Restaurant, Coco Beach’s Champa, Sailing Club’s Sandals, and Joe’s Café.
PHAN THIET
Background Information
Though untrue, LP persists in yet another edition, to state the French colonists lived in segregated neighborhoods along the North Bank of the Ca Ty River, and Malays, Indonesians and other Asians lived on the Southern Bank. The truth is that colonials lived on both sides of the river, as well as other parts of the area, and Phan Thiet has never had any Indonesian or Malay communities.
Getting Around & Information
• The website address for Binh Thuan Tourist is incorrect. However, I’m not going to post the correction here, as they have had a habit of plagiarizing my work in the past—so I don’t feel they deserve the extra web traffic!
• Again, LP fails to mention that Phan Thiet has its own train station with direct-to-Saigon service.
Sights: Major Omissions
• LP fails to mention the Van Thuy Tu whale temple, one of the provinces most significant attractions, as well as numerous other ancient temples and Chinese assembly halls.
• There’s no mention of the Phan Thiet Water Tower, a symbol of both the city and the province, which was built by the infamous Red Prince of Laos.
• LP overlooks the Ho Chi Minh Museum and memorial school where the big man himself lived and taught local students. While a humble place, it nonetheless is a major pilgrimage for the politically-devoted.
• Then there is Khe Ga Island Lighthouse, perhaps the most scenic of all Phan Thiet attractions. As LP mentions Princess d’Annam, which is located there, it is inexplicable why LP would neglect it.
• Of course there are lots of other great sights further afield, but those a trade secrets, so I won’t mention them here…
Ta Cu Mountain
LP overlooks the fact that the old pagoda here was torn down in 2007 and a new pagoda built in its place during 2008/2009. Thus the 1861 construction date is no longer correct.
CONCLUSION
…Lets rework the whole section for the next edition. Plan a section more like Dalat or Nha Trang in size. Add a map for Phan Thiet. Give this place the focus it deserves!
In the interest of full disclosure, I should state that I have worked for many of Lonely Planet’s competitors. I have nothing directly to gain from commenting on their work, other than perhaps the future possibility of working with them, depending upon whether my review angers or pleases them.
The guidebook industry finds itself in a precarious situation. The large volume of free, up-to-the-minute information available on the web has taken an increasingly large bite out of the guidebook industry's profits every year. With the world economic crisis in 2008/2009, the tourism markets crashed in many countries. Guidebook publishers bore a considerable burden as prospective travelers decided to stay home this year and didn't buy as many guidebooks. Thus many publishers have had to figure out how to do more with less. For some this meant smaller, trimmed-down books, delayed new editions, or merely paying authors less (which is risky because it can mean lower-quality output).
I noted this week that the new edition of Lonely Planet Vietnam 2009 was now available, at least in theory. The new books have yet to make an appearance here in Mui Ne, so I decided to purchase the PDF version of the Central Vietnam chapter (which includes Mui Ne), and thus get a short preview of the new book.
I’ve mainly looked at the entries that fall under my own Binh Thuan Province. I have to state that I am rather disappointed with Lonely Planet’s revisions. The write-up for locations in my area, namely Phan Thiet and Mui Ne, are nearly the same as the previous edition, if not slightly trimmed down, though there are a number of new hotels and restaurants listed. This is in opposition to the massive boom in new development in the area since the last edition in 2007. Mui ne has become Vietnam’s largest resort area, now just as relevant to tourism as destinations like Nha Trang and Dalat. Yet LP has not treated the area in this regard.
Due to an email from one of the writers that happened to be widely circulated across Vietnam (the writer requested to meet with locals and expats who could offer tips), I happen to know that the writers were here in Vietnam in October and November of 2008. Therefore, I have made my comments in light of the fact that they rightly would not be aware of developments from December 2008 until the present.
Many thanks once again to LP’s recommendation of my website, www.muinebeach.net, in this new guidebook edition.
Unfortunately it is hard to offer a lot of compliments to this new edition because, as previously stated, there are no new significant additions, other than a few more hotels and resorts for Mui Ne. In fact the number of bars and nightlife options have been cut back, even though many more venues are now available.
CA NA AND VINH HAO
Ca Na and Vinh Hao are minor stopping points on Highway 1A between Mui Ne and Nha Trang. Even for Vietnamese these are fairly insignificant from a tourism perspective. As Lonely Planet decided to include them, they would have been better justified by also mentioning the marine reserve around nearby Hon Cau Island, with its Cham Fisherman’s Temple, as well as the nearby ancient Cham towers and Cham cemetery. As LP neglected to mention them, it really would have been better just to cut these two locations out and allow more space to Phan Thiet and Mui Ne.
As a side, while I have no evidence to refute LP’s claim that Cham princes hunted elephants, rhinos and tigers, I remain skeptical of this information.
MUI NE
Sights in Mui Ne
Fairy Springs: LP continues to make reference to rock formations, however there are none here (except for a small patch of rocks you climb over at the start)—everything else is merely tightly compressed sand.
Thap Po Shanu Cham Towers: These towers are from the 8th century, not the 9th, as stated by LP. Also, practically speaking, there are no opening hours for the towers (the times listed are merely when an attendant collects entrance fees—but there is no gate).
Lizard Fishing
This is an interesting box, however one point is incorrect—the lizards caught by locals are not members of the gecko family. While it’s a nice entry, I can’t help but wonder why LP focused on this minor point, rather than something more poignant like the local whale cults or our magnificent festivals.
Erosion
LP notes the erosion issues in Mui Ne, though incorrectly implies this is a problem for most of the beach. They also fail to mention this is a seasonal issue, and that the sand returns a few months later. Additionally, none of the resorts, to my knowledge, have used sand bags in the last 2-3 years, though some have built retention walls. One problem they should have mentioned but did not, is the crisis we currently have with pollution on the beach.
Getting Around
• LP failed to mention the new highway behind the beach (linking Mui Ne Village proper to Sea Links Golf Course), though this is not yet a crucial point.
• A fatal flaw: LP fails to mention that we have a train station in Phan Thiet, with direct-to-Saigon service—something that has been available since the end of 2005.
• LP’s travel times are wrong. For example, the travel time to Saigon is 5-6hrs, not 4. Likewise, the prices are a little over-inflated.
• LP recommends renting a motorbike in Mui Ne, but fails to mention that Mui Ne is one of the few places in Vietnam where police regularly confiscate motorbikes driven by foreigners without a Vietnam driver’s license.
Information and Maps
I’ve repeatedly sent Lonely Planet corrections, since the 2005 edition, but they have failed to correct several significant mistakes on the map.
• The Mui Ne map is not to scale. The Cham Towers should actually fall outside the bounds of the map. Phan Thiet is a few more kilometers farther than stated, and Highway 1A is about four times the distance written. Likewise, on the other end, the White Sand Dunes are about 30km away, not 5 (and the red sand dunes are less than 1km).
• In the middle of the map, a road leads off into the countryside, with a note stating it leads to a lake, 20km to the north. However, no such lake exists. In fact, this road leads out into the desert and isn’t advisable for tourists to head out here due to the lack of water or folks selling petrol.
• The sea is labeled the “South China Sea.” While in the grand scheme of things from a western perspective, this may be somewhat true, it would be more appropriate to give it the Vietnamese designation, the “Bay of Phan Thiet.”
• A small point, but our main post office is not in Mui Ne Village proper, as listed. Instead, it is located near the Ham Tien (Rang) market in the middle of the beach. The main provincial post office is located in Phan Thiet, near the Central market.
Kiteboarding
LP got the windy season wrong. They write that it’s August to December, but it’s actually the winter—roughly November through March or even later. Likewise, they got the rainy season wrong, which actually starts as early as May and goes as late as November (most of the time) rather than June through September.
A telling mistake is the listing for the closed outfit “Airwaves” at the sailing Club. Airwave closed prior to the last guidebook edition, but since the writers have not visited the Sailing Club, they were apparently unaware. The new establishment operating at the Sailing Club is called “Storm,” run by the very capable Scott Soothill.
Activities: Major Omissions
At the end of last summer, Sea Links Golf Course, the largest development Binh Thuan Province has yet seen, had its soft opening, well before the LP writers began their research. Additionally, Sea Links happily provided tours of the grounds to interested parties long before that. The omission of Sea Links is really an inexcusable error as it has helped to redefine Mui Ne as not just a water sports destination, but now a major golf destination. Its influence has lead to 3 new mini golf courses already, and at least one more proposed 18-hole course further down the beach.
As Vietnam’s Number One resort destination, it is mystifying why LP would neglect to list a single Spa, with so many up and down the beach now. This is another inexcusable error.
Accommodation
• We’ve actually dropped our own listing of Hai Yen Guesthouse, so the web address (on our website) listed by LP is incorrect.
• Kim Hong sold Vietnam-Austria House to new owners, so the email address listed by LP is no longer correct. They imply the pool is somehow new, but it’s always been there.
• Wind Champ Resort just lost its kiteboarding center (mentioned by LP), though Wax bar remains.
• The reference to Mellow being on the “wrong (nonbeach) side of town” is a bit unfair and misleading. It would have been better to simply state it’s across the street from the beach, and thus doesn’t have its own beachfront.
• Bon Bien resort has been around for the two previous editions of the book, so it is not actually a new resort, as stated.
• LP incorrectly tells readers to ignore the name “Victory Phan Thiet Beach Resort” because “it’s not really in Phan Thiet” (implying that the area LP refers to as “Mui ne” is somehow not part of Phan Thiet). However, this is untrue, as all of the accommodations listed are located in Wards of Phan Thiet City.
• LP incorrectly lists Pandanus as “further afield” from Mui Ne. In Fact, this is the only resort listed by LP that is technically located in Mui Ne Village. All other resorts (with the exception of the next resort I’ll discuss) are actually located in the Wards of Ham Tien and Phu Hai, not Mui Ne Village.
• LP incorrectly lists Princess d’Annam resort under Mui Ne, in the further afield section. In fact, it is located within the confined of Phan Thiet City (and more than 1hr from Mui Ne), albeit about 30km south of downtown.
Eating
• One can only wonder what the writers were thinking when they designated Hoa Vien Brauhaus as a Lonely Planet favorite. Good draft beers and a great view it does have, but it is also notorious for bad food and even worse service. It would have been an appropriate bar recommendation, but not as a dining venue.
• On the other end of bad decision-making is LP’s choice to list Shree Ganesh at the end in the “other category.” This member of Vietnam’s renowned Omar’s Indian restaurant chain is arguably one of the best dining options on the beach. It should have made the top of the list.
• Other slighted favorites overlooked by LP include: The Forest Restaurant, Coco Beach’s Champa, Sailing Club’s Sandals, and Joe’s Café.
PHAN THIET
Background Information
Though untrue, LP persists in yet another edition, to state the French colonists lived in segregated neighborhoods along the North Bank of the Ca Ty River, and Malays, Indonesians and other Asians lived on the Southern Bank. The truth is that colonials lived on both sides of the river, as well as other parts of the area, and Phan Thiet has never had any Indonesian or Malay communities.
Getting Around & Information
• The website address for Binh Thuan Tourist is incorrect. However, I’m not going to post the correction here, as they have had a habit of plagiarizing my work in the past—so I don’t feel they deserve the extra web traffic!
• Again, LP fails to mention that Phan Thiet has its own train station with direct-to-Saigon service.
Sights: Major Omissions
• LP fails to mention the Van Thuy Tu whale temple, one of the provinces most significant attractions, as well as numerous other ancient temples and Chinese assembly halls.
• There’s no mention of the Phan Thiet Water Tower, a symbol of both the city and the province, which was built by the infamous Red Prince of Laos.
• LP overlooks the Ho Chi Minh Museum and memorial school where the big man himself lived and taught local students. While a humble place, it nonetheless is a major pilgrimage for the politically-devoted.
• Then there is Khe Ga Island Lighthouse, perhaps the most scenic of all Phan Thiet attractions. As LP mentions Princess d’Annam, which is located there, it is inexplicable why LP would neglect it.
• Of course there are lots of other great sights further afield, but those a trade secrets, so I won’t mention them here…
Ta Cu Mountain
LP overlooks the fact that the old pagoda here was torn down in 2007 and a new pagoda built in its place during 2008/2009. Thus the 1861 construction date is no longer correct.
CONCLUSION
…Lets rework the whole section for the next edition. Plan a section more like Dalat or Nha Trang in size. Add a map for Phan Thiet. Give this place the focus it deserves!
The Latest Gossip: If Pigs could Parasail.
It appears the parasailing folks from Nha Trang have moved in. They've set up station at the derelict, unfinished resort on the west end of the beach. Word is that on their very first day a Russian fellow had a nasty crash on their jet skis, seriously injuring himself. Several customers also got tangled and dragged through the water.
The problem here is that the winds in Mui Ne are probably too strong for the sport. I have no problem with the activity in theory. It looks like fun. But I cringe at the idea of these jet skis and speed boats weaving in and out of the swimmers. It's hard enough balancing the kiteboarders and swimmers on the same beach. My suggestion is that the parasailers should set up a sign and tent on the beach in Mui Ne, then bus their customers up to the next beach (between Mui Ne and Hon Rom) where the waves are calm and the beach is void of swimmers, and frolic safely to their heart's content.
Pig Flu. Word is that it's all over Saigon, and appears to be present here in Mui Ne as well. As I said from the beginning, I think it's much ado about nothing. Less serious than the normal flu. I think its being used as a ploy for government agencies to secure increased funding and new authority. That being said, I was told that masks are getting passed out on the train between Saigon and Phan Thiet, and everyone is wearing them.
The problem here is that the winds in Mui Ne are probably too strong for the sport. I have no problem with the activity in theory. It looks like fun. But I cringe at the idea of these jet skis and speed boats weaving in and out of the swimmers. It's hard enough balancing the kiteboarders and swimmers on the same beach. My suggestion is that the parasailers should set up a sign and tent on the beach in Mui Ne, then bus their customers up to the next beach (between Mui Ne and Hon Rom) where the waves are calm and the beach is void of swimmers, and frolic safely to their heart's content.
Pig Flu. Word is that it's all over Saigon, and appears to be present here in Mui Ne as well. As I said from the beginning, I think it's much ado about nothing. Less serious than the normal flu. I think its being used as a ploy for government agencies to secure increased funding and new authority. That being said, I was told that masks are getting passed out on the train between Saigon and Phan Thiet, and everyone is wearing them.
More on the Garbage Crisis in Mui Ne
I received this message from a friend:
"I've just read with interest your recent blog on the beach pollution crisis. I am still unsure whether the source of the problem is due to the growth of tourism or the lack of care from the local fishermen or perhaps even some other reason. According to my casual conversation with the locals, the pollution is seasonal relating to the ocean currents. It has always been here even before tourism. The interesting part is that the individuals that I spoke to believe that the local fishermen are only partly to blame as much of the rubbish arrives from other areas outside Vietnam.
I am curious about your thoughts and possible solutions."
My Response:
Yes, the locals are right that it’s seasonal. The currents and wind changes direction over the course of the year, blowing the garbage one way or another (into the beach here, or out to Khe Ga). The problem I see now though, is that there is such a large volume of it being pumped into the bay that it is no longer being washed out, and it’s all getting trapped here. I see it as a combination of things—the fishermen and locals dumping trash in Mui Ne, the resorts dumping waste water in Ham Tien, and the city of Phan Thiet dumping garbage in the Ca Ty River and Phan Thiet bay. It occurred to me today that I know the city like the back of my hand, yet I’ve never seen a city garbage dump—I’m sure because it all goes in the bay. That’s a scary thought. I’m sure the garbage comes from many places, but when you sit beside the Ca Ty river and watch the constant flow of garbage floating out to the bay, I think it’s safe to say locals are responsible for most of it.
I think the solutions are probably pretty simple. They need laws to ban dumping garbage with serious fines. They need to ban plastic bags altogether like China. The local government needs to enforce the law requiring resorts to have waste water treatment plants, and stop penalizing the 3 resorts that actually do obey the law. They also need to develop a legitimate garbage dump and waste treatment facility for the city.
Cheers,
Adam
"I've just read with interest your recent blog on the beach pollution crisis. I am still unsure whether the source of the problem is due to the growth of tourism or the lack of care from the local fishermen or perhaps even some other reason. According to my casual conversation with the locals, the pollution is seasonal relating to the ocean currents. It has always been here even before tourism. The interesting part is that the individuals that I spoke to believe that the local fishermen are only partly to blame as much of the rubbish arrives from other areas outside Vietnam.
I am curious about your thoughts and possible solutions."
My Response:
Yes, the locals are right that it’s seasonal. The currents and wind changes direction over the course of the year, blowing the garbage one way or another (into the beach here, or out to Khe Ga). The problem I see now though, is that there is such a large volume of it being pumped into the bay that it is no longer being washed out, and it’s all getting trapped here. I see it as a combination of things—the fishermen and locals dumping trash in Mui Ne, the resorts dumping waste water in Ham Tien, and the city of Phan Thiet dumping garbage in the Ca Ty River and Phan Thiet bay. It occurred to me today that I know the city like the back of my hand, yet I’ve never seen a city garbage dump—I’m sure because it all goes in the bay. That’s a scary thought. I’m sure the garbage comes from many places, but when you sit beside the Ca Ty river and watch the constant flow of garbage floating out to the bay, I think it’s safe to say locals are responsible for most of it.
I think the solutions are probably pretty simple. They need laws to ban dumping garbage with serious fines. They need to ban plastic bags altogether like China. The local government needs to enforce the law requiring resorts to have waste water treatment plants, and stop penalizing the 3 resorts that actually do obey the law. They also need to develop a legitimate garbage dump and waste treatment facility for the city.
Cheers,
Adam
Dan To Rung at Joe's Cafe
Ethnic minority artist Ka Ly Tran performed Dan To Rung, or traditional highlands bamboo music at Joe's Cafe last night to a large crowd. Additionally Tran also performed guitar music, with songs in a variety of minority languages. The music was outstanding and Tran shows promise for a great future.
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