The Fish Egg Tree

Why The Economist Vietnam Summit 2012 Should Be Re-examined

2012-01-06T14:28:00.006+07:00

On January 11, The Economist is hosting a conference titled ‘Vietnam Summit 2012: A Path Into A New World.” The conference is important not only because prestigious speakers will include government ministry heads, ex-ambassadors, bank managers and influential businessmen, but also because the keynote speaker is Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dzung himself.

If you are planning to come (which means you’ll be dishing out between US$1320-US$1890 for a ticket), I respectfully request you consider a few issues before you hop on that plane.

This week it was announced that communist Vietnam had sent peaceful protestor Bui Thi Minh Hang to a concentration camp. Apparently the 2-year sentence, without trial, was delivered in revenge for voicing her opinion on issues related to the South China Sea. No this isn’t 1975, soviet-era Vietnam. This is 2012, and unfortunately Ms. BTMH is one of thousands in re-education camps around the country where inmates are drugged, tortured and forced to do hard labor. For many, the sentence is indefinite.

While moving on from its previous economic peak a couple of years ago, Vietnam has also been regressing politically since about 2008. Vietnam keeps numerous political prisoners, many of whom were arrested as recently as 2011, including journalists and bloggers.

Vietnam’s communist arm reaches beyond just Vietnamese nationals. In August of 2011 French-Vietnamese dissident blogger Pham Minh Hoang was sentenced to 3 years. In 2011, I (a non-Asian American citizen) was one of several foreign journalists to be harassed and detained in relation to gross human rights violations perpetrated by the Hanoi government. Read my story here.

Hanoi continues to ruthlessly persecute Christian groups in the centre of the country, by imprisoning and beating church members and destroying church buildings and personal property.

An epidemic of police brutality, including torture and killing of citizens in custody (some of them small children) in 2011 has led to societal instability resulting in riots in several communities. In the beach resort of Mui Ne on June 12 more than 1000 residents gathered to attack the local police station in response to a brutal beating and torture of a man in custody. The event was emblematic of several incidents around the country.

Vietnam has sought to tightly control the flow of information nationally, including banning blog posts about public matters. Facebook was blocked by the government in 2009. At present the Ministry of Information and Communications is considering extending the block to other critical international websites. Even this very blog is now blocked by government ISPs in many parts of Vietnam.

I do not mean to suggest that participants in the summit should not come. On the contrary, as a professional travel writer I believe free travel is an ideal way to exchange ideas, influence societies and promote democratic ideals. Likewise, as a Free Market Capitalist I believe free trade and international commerce is a key component of developing and maintaining liberty and freedom.

However, business conducted in countries which are communist—countries which are not free—must be done responsibly, otherwise these activities can and do cause more harm than good.

I ask that if you come for the Economist Vietnam Summit that you raise the issues of Vietnam’s abysmal human rights policies, and raise them repeatedly. Do not give Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dzung and his fellow Marxist government leaders a free pass. Let them know that if they want your substantial investment money, they must bring real freedom, democracy and liberty to the people of Vietnam. Don’t let them think that you will sit idly by and allow your investment to fund their repressive policies.

Adam Bray is a freelance writer and photographer for guidebooks published by: Insight Guides, DK Eyewitness, Berlitz, Thomas Cook, Time Out, AA, ThingsAsian, Footprint, and more. He has contributed to more than 25 books on travel in Vietnam and Southeast Asia. He has also contributed a variety of articles, interviews, photos and other content to BBC, CNN International and CNNGo.com.

The Hobbit Film Locations Revealed: Epic New Zealand Landscapes

2012-01-06T01:22:00.004+07:00

You can almost hear the dwarves and Bilbo plodding on... or Gandalf felling the balrog.
Taken on my previous visit.

Just before the holidays Peter Jackson released his 5th video production diary from filming of The Hobbit. Like the Lord of the Rings trilogy before it, The Hobbit is being filmed exclusively in New Zealand. The country is renowned for some of the most beautiful and varied scenery on the planet, yet is concentrated in a relatively small pair of islands. In the Video, Jackson gives us a brief glance at some of the locations, which I have deciphered below.

THE NORTH ISLAND

Hobbiton between filming of the Lord of the Rings and reconstruction for The Hobbit.

Photo source: Wikipedia.

Hamilton

Once again the town of Hamilton is used as a base, and Hobbiton has been revived in the farming community of Matamata. This time the hobbit holes were rebuilt permanently as a gift to New Zealand’s tourism industry (see the Hobbiton Tours website here). This was the same location used for the Lord of The Rings, but it was torn down after filming was completed. The attraction remains open to the public now and will definitely be on my upcoming tour this month. Stay tuned for tweets and blog posts.

Additionally, the Waihou Redwoods and Putaruru were used as filming locations for the Bywater Countryside. Read a post (with photos) from an embedded blogger during the Hobbiton shoot.

Local scenery. Taken on my previous visit.

Te Kuiti

To the west, Te Kuiti was used as another base for filming. The Denize Bluffs and Mangaotaki Valley were used for the Trollshaws setting. This landscape is located near Waitomo Caves, which is a popular tourism site to go tubing in the underground rivers and view New Zealand’s glow worms hanging from the cave ceilings above. Read another post from an embedded blogger on the film shoot.

Tongariro National Park. Source: Wikipedia.

Tongariro National Park

A location used in the original trilogy for the land of Mordor, Tongariro National Park is the home of one of New Zealand’s 9 Great Walks; the Tongariro Northern Circuit. This time around it was used for landscapes of the Long Valley and Lonely Mountains in The Hobbit.

Wellington seen from the hills above. Taken on a previous visit.

Wellington

The capital city of Wellington is located at the southern tip of New Zealand’s Northern Island. Wellington is the home of Weta Digital (Peter Jackson’s computer effects house) and Weta Worshop (the props and models—all the tangible stuff). While neither are open to the public for tours, the Weta Cave is. Also, it is common to catch famous crew members and cast about town. There are several tour companies who lead tours to Lord of the Rings locations and Hobbit sites may be added soon. For local tours of film locations try: Flat Earth, Wellington Rover or Wellington Movie Tours. Local sights from the original trilogy include Rivendell, the Anduin River, Amon Hen, Isengard, Helm's Deep, Minas Tirith, and the spot where the Hobbits fell down the hill (Fellowship of the Ring) and landed beside the mushrooms, before the Nazgul Rider came... and many more.

THE SOUTH ISLAND

Landscape north of Nelson. Taken on a previous visit.

Nelson

Nelson is the veritable gateway to the South Island, coming from Wellington. It also makes a great base to explore the Abel Tasman National Park, site of another of New Zealand’s Great Walks (view photos from Abel Tasman here and read about the Abel Tasman track here). The Forest River scenes in The Hobbit were filmed near Nelson at Pelorus Bridge.

Scenery from nearby Abel Tasman, taken on my last visit.

Takaka

West of Nelson and just outside of Abel Tasman National Park, Takaka was another base for filming. Takaka Hill was used as landscape for the Westfarthing Countryside and Weatherhills. To the extreme northwest, the wild Golden Bay, and Golden Downs also featured.

Lake Pukaki. Source: Wikipedia.

Twizel

South of Nelson and Takaka, Twizel was another base for filming, where the Shores of Laketown were shot at New Zealand’s famous Lake Pukaki. The fields of Gondor in Return of the King were also shot in the areas. For tours, try Discovery Tours.

Queenstown's 'Remarkable' mountains hovering over the airport.

Make no mistake, Peter Jackson's 'Misty Mountains' will be misty.

Taken on a previous trip.

Queenstown

Queenstown is New Zealand’s gorgeous souther adventure capital (it’s home to the world famous AJ Hackett bungee jumping empire). Much of the country’s most dramatic mountain scenery is easily accessible from Queenstown (including Milford Sound), so this was understandably both an important spot for filming the Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit movies. For helicopter tours of locations for the Misty Mountains, Ford of Bruinen, Isengard and many more Middle Earth spots, try Heliworks. Alternatively, try Dart Stables for horseback riding to locations from the Lord of the Rings, Chronicles of Narnia and X-Men Wolverine.

There were more filming locations around Queenstown than I can count or decipher, but here are a few for The Hobbit:

Paradise, Paradise Trust, and Arcadia Station were all used as locations for the Outskirts of Bree. Speargrass Flat and Wanaka comprised the Lonelands. Glenorchy Sheelite and spots all around Queenstown were used for Wildlands scenery. The Remarkables, a spectacular mountain range overlooking Queenstown, was used for scenery in Lord of the Rings, and is used once again in The Hobbit for the Misty Mountains.

Dunedin. Source: Wikipedia.

Dunedin

On the west coast of the South Island is Dunedin, another base for filming. The town is famous for colonies of penguins, sea lions and fur seals. North in the countryside, a picturesque Rock & Pillar Range and Middlemarch were used as filming locations for the movie’s Dale Hills. Nearby Hartfield and Strath Taieri comprised additional ‘Epic Landscapes.’

Peter Jackson's 5th Video Diary, detailing some of these locations. Unfortunately its very difficult to watch this due to the slow bandwidth in the country where I am currently located, but hopefully you fare better!

NOTE: I’ll begin Tweeting on January 12 from New Zealand, and will post blog entries as time allows. I’ll be visiting several of the locations above too, so expect more. Follow me minute by minute on Twitter: @FishEggTree. For more information on travel in New Zealand, please also visit Tourism New Zealand.

Videos from the Long Wall of Quang Ngai

2012-01-03T21:28:00.003+07:00

Below are a couple of videos from the Long Wall of Quang Ngai; Vietnam's own recently-discovered 'great wall.' I was the first journalist to visit the wall and I also reported on it for CNN and BBC. These videos show a few sections of the wall and ongoing archaeology at the site. Visit www.longwallofquangngai.com for more information and links to stories in the media. Also, if you live in Vietnam, be sure to get a copy of the January-February issue of East West Traveler Magazine. I explore the regional-historical significance of the Long Wall for Central Vietnam, talk about who the builders (the Hre) actually are, and disclose the Cham connection. Much of this is information written about for the first time.

An Evening in North Korea's Pyongyang

2011-12-31T02:31:00.002+07:00

At the gates of Pyongyang. 'Then the Black Gate opened and the dark armies of Sauron marched forth to cover the..." oops, wrong story.

I’d been trying to visit North Korea’s Pyongyang Restaurant ever since news of Kim Jong-Il’s death broke (see: ) but unfortunately it remained closed for 10 ceremonial days to mourn the Dear Leader. Tonight was the first night of re-opening since the funeral this week.

The restaurant, located in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, is allegedly one of many overseas ventures that are not-so-secretly run by the quasi-Marxist (but ‘officially’ no longer communist) dynastic regime. The rumor is that they pump some much-needed foreign currency (US Dollars) into the North Korean ‘economy,’ if you can even call ‘that’ a functioning economy. None of this is officially admitted.

The restaurant is situated on the south side of town in a closed compound. Its not possible to look inside the restaurant, or any other part of the compound, from the outside—which gives it an air of pseudo-James Bondiness.

Entering the gates, I was led down a covered driveway and into a large dining room. The first thing that hit me were the stunningly beautiful North-Korean waitresses. They told me that all 13 of them were on 3-year internships as part of their enrollment at the Pyongyang University of Commerce. All were between 21 and 24 years old, had white skin with perfect complexions, long black hair, and dressed in plain but feminine black-a-white uniforms.

Lovely North Korean waitresses greeting guests at the door.

I was seated at the back of the room. The first thing I did was haul my camera out, and immediately there was a chorus of ‘Sir, no, no, no!’ They also obsessively watched my constant fidgeting with my iPhone to make sure I didn’t get any photos with that either… whoops.

The dining room was unremarkable, other than a few enormous oil paintings of waves crashing on rocks at sunset and streams wandering through mountain foothills and pink cherry blossoms. Presumably they were idealized pictures of home. What surprised me most about the room was that there were no pictures of Kim Jong-Il or even The Drear Leader Jr. No ‘We are gonna miss you, Dear Leader and Forbes 31st Most Powerful Person” memorial photos, and no ‘Congratulations to the Little Generalissimo, Kim Jung-Un’ wreaths.

I was told by the staff that in Phnom Penh there are 3 North Korean restaurants, but they are all ‘separate.’ I couldn’t get further clarification on what ‘separate’ meant, since I’m under the impression that all such establishments are government-run. Perhaps they meant something like one funds Kim’s golf trips, another funds nuclear missiles, and the third funds play dates with Iran?

Obligatory Korean food shot one.

The menu was big (literally—it took 4 hands to sift through it), and had a decent selection, though items were pricy. A lovely Dog Meat Casserole Platter was $25. A huge plate of kimchi (which would easily do a whole dinner party) was $3. Most Entrées were between $6 and $30. I settled on a plate of mondu (fried meat-filled dumplings), kimchi, a platter of fried eggplant and a large serving of bulgogi (BBQ beef) for a total of $25. Additionally, I asked if the staff received any of the tip money but they told me no, so I didn’t bother. There were a few typical Korean condiments—mostly pickled, steamed and boiled things—but not as many as there really should be for the price. The food wasn’t spectacular but I had no real complaints—and I left completely stuffed.

Obligatory Korean food shot two.

Sadly there was no traditional North Korean music or costumed dancing, which is normally a highlight of the experience. When I inquired, the waitresses didn’t seem to want to address it directly.

“You know why, right?” asked the waitress. “You already know.”

“Because the Leader died?” I answered.

“Yes. We will have music again in the New Year,” they all chimed. Apparently that meant January 1st, the day after tomorrow.

“How did you feel when you heard Kim Jong-Il died?” I asked.

“He is our father, for the whole nation. He is great.” The waitresses all answered without emotion.

“And how do you feel about his son, Kim Jong-Un.” I asked?

“He is the brother for our whole nation. We feel the same about him. He is great,” they said, one after another.

“Do you know anything about the new leader?’ I probed. ‘Do you know anything about Kim Jong-Un’s life?”

A waitress looked at me blankly. “No.” She shook her head.

“So what did you all do during the 10 days that the restaurant was closed for Kim Jon-Il’s death?” I asked.

“We watched North Korean TV,” the waitresses told me. “Here and at the North Korean Embassy.”

“For 10 days? You didn’t do anything else?” They nodded with vacant expressions. “How did people here at the restaurant feel about it?” I asked. More blank stares. “Was everybody sad? Did you cry?”

“Yes, everybody cried,” they mumbled, looking away.

Restaurant shot with melodramatic oil paintings of North Korean landscapes in the background.

I asked about their life in North Korea and what they do in their free time. All readily told me basic things like how many people were in their family, and the jobs that they all had (which were all very respectable). Their free time activities in North Korean were oddly the same as their free time activities in Cambodia: sleeping, swimming (apparently at a local hotel), exercise regiments at the restaurant, practicing English in their room, and practicing their traditional song and dance numbers in the dining room.

I asked what kind of music that each liked and if they ever listed to music from South Korea, America, China or even Cambodia. Again I got nothing but blank stares. None had ever even bought a cd in the market—and would have me believe that they were never even curious about listening to any.

“I have my music from North Korea. I can listen to traditional Korean dance music CDs for our performance practice,” a waitress replied incredulously. “Why do I need music from other countries? I don’t like it.”

I got similar answers when I asked about foreign cable TV and American movies, all readily available in Cambodia, and cheaper than in America, thanks to piracy. Apparently the waitresses were not allowed to watch or listen to Non-north Korean tv, movies or music, even while they were in Cambodia. None of them knew there was also an American-style cinema in walking distance from the restaurant. They all seem to change the subject when I asked about DVDs in the markets. Likewise, though they said there was a computer at the restaurant, there was no internet for them to use.

It appeared that most of the girls rarely left the restaurant compound. They did say that sometimes they ordered delivery from KFC or a pizza place (both of which they liked a lot), and that occasionally they were taken as a group to go swimming. However when I asked them what they thought about the Royal Palace, the National Museum, the Killing Fields Memorial or the riverfront with the many bars and restaurants, none of them knew what I was talking about.

“There is a museum here?” several asked who’d lived in Phnom Penh a few years already.

A toilet shot. Its the only photo I didn't have to really sneak. They had really nice sit-downs behind me. Certainly its got to be better than the toilets they have at home. Even in 2003, when I arrived in Vietnam, most places only had squatty-potties with ladles to spoon your own water (and no toilet paper), so this must be a luxury to the girls working at the restaurant.

One girl seemed to be somewhat familiar with a few of the city sights, but even so it wasn’t clear from talking to her whether she had merely seen them from inside a passing car. A few did know about buying cloths and makeup at the Sorya Mall. It would seem though that most of these poor girls have spent up to 3 years in Cambodia and yet have never seen the sights around the city, let alone been able to visit Angkor Wat. Their only outings from the restaurant—where they slept on the second floor—were closely guarded to expose them to as little as possible of the city around them. I felt really bad for the girls.

In these young North Korean waitresses I saw the same psychic disconnect that I’ve often observed in Vietnamese young people. These girls have met foreigners, seen the outside world, and now their new feelings no longer match up with the propaganda that they have been taught all their lives. They can spout dogma without a thought, but their hearts were no longer in harmony. However, they don’t yet seem to recognize the irreconcilable dichotomy in their minds. Perhaps one day they will.

As for a dining experience, it was nice, and the service was excellent. The waitresses spoke English well enough for me and were very attentive. The high prices aren’t quite merited though, at least without the music and dancing to accompany. If I can manage to get in again and sneak some photos of that, we may have another post here soon…

Otherwise, check it out for yourself:

Pyongyang Restaurant
No 400, Monivong Boulevard, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Tel: 012 27 74 52
Tel: 012 36 46 40

Open for lunch, 11:30am-ish to 2:30pm-ish and dinner, 5pm-ish to 11pm-ish.

Photos from New Zealand's Abel Tasman

2011-12-30T13:11:00.004+07:00

New Zealand's famous fern trees.
They sort of fill the niche of palm trees in New Zealand's rainforests.

Presented here are photos from my adventures on one of New Zealand's 'Great Walks,' the Abel Tasman. Abel Tasman National Park is located on the north end of the South Island. The best jumping-off point is the town of Nelson. Peter Jackson just finished filming scenes for 'The Hobbit' around Nelson and Abel Tasman. Filming sites included Takaka and Takaka Hill, Golden Bay and Golden Downs, and Pelorus Bridge. It's no wonder Jackson was drawn to film here, given how beautiful and easily-accessible the scenery in this area is--both form filming and visitors. I'll post more about filming location for The Hobbit and The Lord of the Rings later.

An iconic trail scene. After I shot this I found a few postcards for sale
around New Zealand with precisely the same subject matter.

New Zealand sheep. In my travels I actually ran into as many deer farms as sheep.

Abel Tasman coastal scenery at low tide.

The underside of a fern, exposing the spores (for reproduction).

The silver fern is a national symbol of New Zealand.

Succulent flowers at the beach.

Coastal views along the Abel Tasman.

Forest scenes in Abel Tasman National Park.

For more information about Abel Tasman and how to arrange a visit, see my previous Abel Tasman post here. For more information on travel in New Zealand, please visit Tourism New Zealand.

As always, the photos above are copyrighted and may not be reprinted without permission.

Baby Monkeys Agenst Vietnam Guvermint Sensirship

2011-12-29T03:04:00.003+07:00

A few years ago I noticed that komunust Vietnam's sensirship of blogs, at least those hosted by Google Blogger, was mostly automated. This is in contrast to the Fase-Bhook blahck, which targets the domane name and/or eye-pee. The automated sensir seems to be triggered by the appearance of any of several band keywords, in combination, within the first post on the blog. Thus the deliberate misspellings of a number of key words in this post.

For example, if the word 'marksust' and 'leyer' and 'koruhpt' and 'Vietnam' and 'evul' all appeared in the same post (spelled correctly of course), there's a good chance that it would be blahcked. It doesn't matter if the words or phrases are actually tied together to make a coherent, 'objectionable' statement. The words just have to appear randomly together in a single post.

Now that being said, just as with the guvermint Fase-Bhook blahck, it doesn't work 100%. Sometimes people can still see the blog in certain areas, or access it intermittently.

So, in most cases, to un-blahck a blog in Vietnam, all one has to do is figure out a way to log in (not easy when your blog is blahcked) and post a new story without any 'objectionable' keywords. Once that has been done, the guvermint sensirship software has to cycle through a full 24-hours (which may turn out to be 2 working days) before the blog is un-blahcked and visible to all in Vietnam again.

Thats assuming someone hasn't been singled out for direct & deliberate, individual sensirship. But so far I don't think I ever have here.

Therefore, lets hope that:

1. Something as lovable and benign as a post about adorable baby monkeys (actually they are baby long-tailed macaques), which I photographed during my last trip to Thailand, will get my blog unsemsired in Vietnam after that last 2012 predickshun post below.

and 2. I get truckloads of site visitors because I know how much my audience loves baby monkeys!

As always, these photos are copyrighted and may not be 'borrowed' or republished elsewhere without permission and payment. Thanks!

Vietnam: Predictions for 2012; Economy, Politics, Tourism, Environment

2011-12-27T22:02:00.002+07:00

To make this more fun, I’ll try to refrain from maybes and probabilities and stick to straight predictions.

Economy

2012 will bring mild recession to Vietnam due to both internal and external economic factors.
The official government numbers will be substantially low, but will not quite reflect a recession.
The real estate, finance and export sectors will all take substantial hits. Property markets will reach a crisis point in key developing areas such as Saigon, Nha Trang and Hanoi.
In a move to avert impending failure of several government banks, Vietnam will consolidate them and tighten banking regulations.
Vietnam will continue to consolidate numerous failing state companies.
In an effort to prevent a rush on the gold market, the government will increasingly restrict trade in gold.
New foreign investment will continue but at a much lower rate than 2010 and 2011. New foreign brands will move into Vietnam, particularly in fast food, but performance will be anaemic.
Vietnam will increase restrictions (and enforcement) for expats living and working in Vietnam.
Political and Economic challenges will result in a new series of policies, popularly referred to as ‘Doi Moi 2.0,’ in reference to ground-breaking government reforms more than 20 years ago. These reforms will merely kick the can a few years further down the line.

Speech and the Internet

Vietnam’s on-again, off-again censorship of Facebook will continue in its current state.
Twitter will be intermittently censored.
Vietnam will continue to arrest and imprison Vietnamese bloggers and social media users.
Vietnam will detain several foreign journalists and expat bloggers. Some journalists will be deported.

South China Sea and Regional Politics

World events, including continued unrest in the middle east, nation-threatening instability in Egypt, Syria and Iraq, as well as uncertainty and tension in North Korea, will present a distraction which serves as an opportunity for China to strengthen its position in territorial disputes. This will include but not be limited to the South China Sea. China, Vietnam, Taiwan, Philippines and the USA will all increase military presence in the region. The US and Vietnam will continue to strengthen ties in an effort to contain China. Several US Senators and Hillary Clinton will make new visits to Vietnam. If tension with China deepens, President Obama will also visit Hanoi in person.

Tourism

The tourism industry will continue to grow but at only a slight rate. Tourism in the Central Highlands, northern Vietnam (outside Hanoi) and the Mekong will actually decline slightly. Tourism in Hanoi and HCMC will remain at current levels. Tourism in coastal areas will increase moderately.
Due to financial considerations, I predict Vietnam will be forced to decline the Natural 7 Wonders title for Ha Long Bay. However, if Vietnam does decide to pay the expenses allegedly associated with accepting the award, it will eliminate the VNAT’s 2012 budget for most activities, including advertising and tourism festivals. Either outcome will have relatively no effect on tourism levels. Ha Long Bay will continue to be a major attraction but fraught with safety issues.
Bobby Chinn’s restaurant will become a key tourist attraction for HCMC, thanks to his new TV show that features it. The restaurant will attract other celebrity visitors to the city.
Branjelina will be back, with kids in tow. However, their travel plans will be more secretive.
Development of the Long Wall of Quang Ngai as a tourist attraction will slowly continue.
Vietnam will feature in a number of Cable TV programs about travel and nature. Most will reflect well on Vietnam, but a few will not be as positive.

Mui Ne

2012 will be a year of transition in Mui Ne. The beach will begin to take on more of an impersonal party-town feel, characteristic of a Thailand tourist destination.
As old property leases and work contracts expire, many of the early expats in Mui Ne will leave.
The tourism industry will grow in 2012 but at more moderate levels than 2011. Russians will continue to dominate.
There will continue to be new foreign-owned and Saigon-based businesses opening.
Crime, drugs, prostitution, fatal traffic accidents and drownings will increase. Pollution will become a more serious problem.
Sailing will continue to develop but kiteboarding will decrease somewhat.
Mui Ne will see its first foreign fast food or coffee chain open. Phan Thiet will see its third new foreign chain open.

Environment

Vietnam will push forward with dams at the Cat Tien UNESCO Biosphere, despite controversy. UNESCO will fail to address the issue despite serious degradation of the park.
Disagreements will continue between Vietnam officials and foreign NGOs over whether Javan Rhinos are really extinct in Vietnam. Vietnamese officials will put forth alleged evidence and sightings of Rhinos in remote areas. Vietnam’s war on African Rhinos will continue unabated.
Wild Asian elephants will be pushed near extinction in Vietnam in 2012 due to poaching of ivory.
Debate will arise over whether tigers are now officially extinct in Vietnam due to poaching.
Vietnamese authorities will continue to make impressive seizures of trafficked wildlife but it will not deter the overall rate of wildlife trafficking.
Vietnam’s new nuclear program with Russia and Japan will press forward but will become a popular topic when a series of minor earthquakes rattle southern Vietnam between August and November. The media will be slow to highlight more serious issues surrounding the program.
A new bird flu epidemic will emerge in Vietnam & surrounding countries, with multiple fatalities within Vietnam. It will contain DNA from several other viruses. It will not be admitted and announced until well into the epidemic.

North Korea's 66 Centimeters of Sadness

2011-12-20T21:41:00.004+07:00

Today I visited the North Korean government's other bastion of repressive good will, the Pyongyang Koryo. This Kimchi House With Nuclear Hospitality is yet another facility used by the Kim dynasty to finance overseas activities. By the looks of it, the North Koreans run a number of other 'hospitality' businesses in the area, besides restaurants...

If I'm not mistaken this is a 'the restaurant is closed till further notice' sign. The original Restaurant Pyongyang was also closed again today, with a similar sign.

Back at the North Korean Embassy, the flag continued to wave about 4/5 staff. Not really half mast--more like 2/3 of a meter (or 66cm) from the tip. Nowhere were wreaths hung, memorial photos or any kind of tokens to express grief or condolences. There was no movement inside the compound or embassy building--at least that could be seen from the street through the wide-open doors. It appeared that while the minions in North Korea wailed and pounded tables for the cameras, the overseas diplomats and emissaries of good will all took a holiday. I hear 'Puss in Boots' is playing at City Mall. Perhaps they all took in a matinée.

Kim Jong-Il, Vladimir Lenin & Ho Chi Minh, along with other leaders like Mao Tse Tung & Kim Il Sung, all get 'special treatment' after they pass on.

Like all the great socialist dictatorships, North Korea now faces an important choice in moving forward after Kim's death: brine, bread & butter, or kosher dill?

Trivia: According to The Korea Times, the embalming of Kim Sr. originally cost US$1 million, with an anual US$ 800,000 maintenance fee. Like Ho Chi Minh & Lenin, Kim is taken off display periodically for touch-ups. Its believed the other leaders are equally high-maintenance and similarly expensive. It is rumored that the corpses are all shrinking at varying rates.

Kim Jong-Il: Phnom Penh's Inconsolable Bereavement

2011-12-19T23:11:00.002+07:00

Phnom Penh mourned today at news of the death of North Korea's Supreme Leader, Kim Jong-Il. Though there were no real outward signs detectable to the naked eye, there was presumably an unmistakable grief, deep in the cockles of every Khmer person's heart. Cambodia and the DPRK have had a history of good relations, the details of which we will not get into for fear of a late-night knock on the door... but needless to say, things are officially very friendly between the two countries.

The North Korean Embassy. The Flag isn't quite at half staff. It's kind of in that grey area where you aren't sure if they've really heard the terrible news, or perhaps they couldn't bare to face the reality and only got it down a few inches before bursting in tears.

There were no announcements of the death of the Dear Leader at the embassy gates. Just a few old sun-bleached photos of Kim looking at this or that, and a tattered old statement of The General's great deeds. "In the Late 1990s when the country experienced grueling hardships due to the vicious schemes of the imperialists, Kim Jong Il paid close attention to the problems related to the improvement of the people's standard of living. He personally provided on-site guidance to solve knotty problems." The last part really choked me up.

Restaurant Pyongyang is a not-so-secret North Korean government facility, designed to help finance the country's activities in Cambodia. Its a sort of dinner theatre serving Kim Jong-Il's culinary favorites with authentic song and dance numbers, rumored to be choreographed by our Dear Leader himself. Only US Dollars accepted.

Sadly the restaurant was closed today, apparently in mourning for The Supreme Leader. Only this small sign hung on the large locked, red gates. I haven't worked out what it says yet. Hopefully they will open again soon.

The Adventures of Adam Bray & The Tribes of Ratanakiri

2011-12-16T09:38:00.001+07:00

Ratanakiri Province, in the northeastern. mountainous corner of cambodia, is known for its ethnic diversity. Peppered across the jungles and mountains are the tribes of Jarai, Kreung, Tampuan, Cham, Poy, Kachon, Kachok, Lao and others. Below are photos from some of the villages which I explored in the forests north of the capital, Ban Lung.

A totem in a tribal cemetery.

Stilt homes in a Poy village. The design protects the home from flooding and provides shelter for farm animals underneath.

An iconic bachelor hut in a Poy village.

The communal meeting house. Note the decorative crossbars on the roof and intricate woven patterns on the walls. Such meeting houses are central to virtually all tribes in the region, though their architectural styles and decorations vary greatly. The Bahnar rong houses of neighboring Vietnam are perhaps the most extreme examples.

A tribal home with decorative crossbeams.

Buffalo bits roasted on a fire.

A ceremonial 'tree,' central to a 'buffalo-stabbing festival.' More of a private party, the ceremony is a classic part of most ethnic minority cultures found in Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos. Bamboo poles are decorated with wooden and woven grass ornaments. Animals (usually a buffalo, but not always) are tied to the posts and ceremonially slaughtered as an offering to gods. Part of the buffalo hide is seen here hanging on the left post. The ceremony is a sort of thanksgiving, often for a successful harvest. The ceremony is accompanied with music (typically gongs and gourd or string instruments), and drinking copious amounts of rice wine in jars.

Related stories:

Other posts with photos of buffalo-stabbing trees.

Other posts with photos of ethnic minorities in Vietnam and Cambodia.

My story about rice wine (ruou can) culture in Vietnam.

The Adventures of Adam Bray & The Sacred Waters of Ratanakiri

2011-12-14T13:05:00.001+07:00

Ratanakiri Province is located in northeastern Cambodia, bordering Laos and Vietnam. It has some of the loveliest natural scenery in the country. Below are photos from my explorations this month.

Yeak Laom is a volcanic crater lake. The waters were considered sacred by Kreung and Tampuan villagers. Much of the geology in Ratanakiri is influenced by volcanos. This has resulted in large deposits of gem stones, including zircon, peridot, amethyst, gem-quality quartz and other things like gold and petrified wood. Extinct and dormant volcanos are located throughout the region. There are also volcanic crater lakes on the other side of the border, near Pleiku, Vietnam.

An orgy of daddy-long-legs (arachnids)

Bamboo forests at Yeak Laom

Gourds decorated by ethnic Tampuan villagers. After they are dried they are used to hold rice wine or water. Souvenir rice wine is often sold in ceramic jugs shaped like these gourds. The curves are also said to resemble a woman.

Cha Ong Waterfall

Kachang Waterfall

Jungle flowers

Jungle fungus

I arrived at the Ton Le San River, which flows from Kon Tum, Vietnam, all the way to the Mekong River. It is one of only a few rivers that flow west from the mountains to the Mekong. Tall mountains loomed in the distance at Virachey National Park, and small sampan boats lurked under water.

If he can do it, so can I... right? This is one of the longest wooden suspension bridges that I have encountered in my local travels. I did indeed cross it... twice. I was 'thrilled' to find several broken planks as I drove across.

The Adventures of Adam Bray & The Lost City of Ratanakiri

2011-12-13T10:40:00.001+07:00

Last year my guide and I discovered a lost temple city in the jungles of Ratanakiri, Cambodia. The city, constructed with an earthen wall and a tall, central temple mound, was built using baked red bricks on a foundation of laterite slabs. As is customary for Cham cities and temples, it was situated on a rise overlooking a river; the Ton Le San, which extends from Kontum, Vietnam, to the Mekong River.

I returned this month to Ratanakiri, in northeastern Cambodia, to relocate the temple on my own. Using only a single GPS point, I traveled alone several hours north of the town of Ban Lung, driving through old logging and poaching trails, then hiked through the jungle, and at last came upon the city once again.

Overtaken by the jungle, this ancient ruined city is covered by trees and vines, Most of the structures have eroded leaving only the earthen walls, temple mound, moat and piles of bricks and stone slabs. Undoubtedly there are valuable artifacts buried underneath the city as well.

A moat around the city connects to a jungle stream which leads to the Ton Le San. The Cham were renowned for their sailing abilities, as well as their ability to conduct warfare on the water.

From the bottom of the earthen rampart looking up. The wall is about 5-6 meters tall here and 4 meters wide.

A tiny jungle gecko. This variety hides under debris on the forest floor, lacking the large toe-pads of common house geckos.

Tree bark freshly scratched by an animal. Perhaps a bear?

Giant spiders are everywhere. It's impossible not to stumble into a web or two or three. This small specimen is a male. Females are many times larger. More terrifying are the ants however. Black armies are everywhere. Step on the ground about a colony and thousands boil out of the ground. They shake in unison, apparently as a warning, which causes the ground to vibrate and the loose soil on top to rattle.

Three red bricks, worn by centuries of worms eating through them.

This slab has a post hole on either side. There are several of these slabs with postholes in identical positions, sitting together. Apparently there was a building here held up by wooden posts.

A reservoir inside the city walls.

Click here to see my post on the city from last year. Included are more photos of the ruins themselves, including a section of brick wall. Or, view all of my archaeological adventures here. Then check out my story for CNN on how to find Cham temple ruins yourself.

Are Vietnam Immigration Officials in on the Blackjack Scam?

2011-12-09T16:17:00.002+07:00

Four from a group of 11 cons arrested in Saigon this summer.

A victim of Saigon's Blackjack Scam has alleged that the con artist which approached them is a Vietnam Immigration official working at the Saigon airport (view the post at http://johnnyvagabond.com/featured/poker-scam-saigon), While we cannot yet independently confirm the allegation, it agrees with information receive from other sources. It has long been alleged that police officers in Saigon have been receiving a cut of the money extorted from tourists, and this has allowed the Filipino mafia to operate openly, preying upon tourists in the city center. Immigration officers are indeed a class of police. Their power would not only allow them to help the cons remain in the country illegally, but also the privileged information which they have access to could help the group gain valuable information to aid them in stalking victims. If you have any information related to the situation we welcome your posts.

Additionally, several victims have alleged that a gold shop is complicit in the scam. The shop is:

KHANG THANH - CH VANG BAC DA QUY KHANG THANH
384 BUI HUU NGHIA, P.2, Q.BT, TP. HCM · TP.HCM
TELEPHONE: 08412068

XDX Comics: Lèse-Majesté Ice Cream

2011-12-02T22:28:00.001+07:00

XDX Comics: UNESCO's Newest World Heritage Site

2011-11-30T15:34:00.003+07:00

XDX Comics: VTV's New Game Show

2011-11-29T17:41:00.000+07:00

XDX Comics, Edition 1.01: South China Sea Diplomacy

2011-11-28T17:58:00.001+07:00

Welcome to a new once-every-few-days (or more often if I can help it) feature: XDX Comics. Click on the image for a larger version. Inquiries welcome.

Crossing That Bridge [Photos]

2011-11-27T11:25:00.001+07:00

Crossing bridges has become a poignant metaphor for my life this year, as big changes have come along my path, none of which I've had much control over. The only choice has been to step across in faith (or perhaps to jump off). Some bridges are more challenging than others, especially when passing an opposing force, but each time new adventures await on the other side.

The wooden suspension bridge above is one of many still actively used in Binh Thuan Province, Vietnam.

On Vietnam’s disrespect for the family of Brad Pitt & Angelina Jolie

2011-11-14T02:36:00.002+07:00

As the whole world now knows, the family of Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie showed up unexpectedly in Vietnam last week for a holiday. They landed in Saigon and then the next day flew to Con Dao Island, where they are reportedly staying at the Six Senses Con Dao Resort.

When the couple and their 6 children arrived, they were greeted with the same reception they get everywhere they go: paparazzi at the airport, paparazzi outside their hotel, paparazzi at meals—paparazzi everywhere.

Somewhat surprising was the fact that Vietnamese paparazzi even followed the couple to Con Dao (the most remote and inaccessible point in the country) and tailed them all through their activities on the island, including the former prison museum. The photos are all over the internet.

The real tragedy however, besides the gross invasion of the family’s private time, is the golden opportunity that Vietnam has now missed—even destroyed themselves.

In this family, Vietnam had a friend. Ms Jolie and Mr Pitt are arguably the world’s biggest celebrities—and low and behold, they have not only an interest, but a personal connection with Vietnam, through their son Pax.

Vietnam could have tried to nurture this connection. Vietnam’s tourism ministry could have approached the couple and asked for help in promoting the country (as I've suggested many times before). Vietnam could have done what much smarter government officials in Cambodia had done, and extended an official welcome and foster a relationship with the family.

Vietnam didn’t do this however. Instead, the government of Vietnam abused this family by betraying their trust and their privacy. State officials and state employees have misused their authority in monitoring and leaking information about the family to the media. The communist government-controlled newspapers have sent their journalists and photographers (or at times hired ‘freelance bounty-hunters’) to tail them everywhere they go.

Its one thing, in a capitalist country, for private individuals to engage in this sort of behaviour, but here in communist Vietnam, it’s the very government who is ultimately responsible for harassing this family on their vacation.

So Vietnam, no, you haven’t exactly done to Pitt and Jolie anything that wouldn’t happen to them elsewhere. You did however show them that Vietnam isn’t so unique after all. And at a time when Vietnam is trying to develop ‘5-star’ tourism, you just showed the whole world that you won’t allow celebrities to enjoy Vietnam unmolested.

PS. A word about their kids. It is extremely rude, unprofessional—and sleazy, to follow the kids around. Stop it.

Secondly, please stop referring to the family’s six children as their six ‘adoptees.’ Only 3 are adopted, but that’s not the point—they are children, not property. To my knowledge, all of them carry both the last names of their parents, so its rather insensitive to apply it to the biological children but intentionally omit it when referring to their adopted children. More to the point—stop saying that the Ms Jolie ‘promised to bring her Vietnamese boy home.’ Pax is her son, not just any boy. Likewise, to my knowledge he is an American citizen. But even that is not relevant—the child’s ‘home’ is wherever his mother and father reside. My dear Vietnamese media, I tell you this because I know you are going to spend your lives pestering this poor child, so you might as well get this straight early on. You may mean well, but to do otherwise is highly offensive to parents of adopted children.

New Video: Vietnam rams Chinese Vessel & Who was really behind anti-China protests

2011-11-07T17:40:00.004+07:00

Two videos were uploaded on Youtube yesterday, which appear to show a Vietnamese coastguard vessel ramming a boat labelled ‘China Maritime Surveillance.’ It’s unknown where or when the video was taken, or even if the incident is part of the latest round of tension in the South China Sea this year.

The original videos were taken down from Youtube either Monday night or Tuesday morning. However, one of the videos has been re-posted by another user name, now with enhanced sound and both English and Chinese subtitles.

What is remarkable about the video however, is that it paints a very different picture from the one that the Vietnamese government has put forth; namely that Vietnam has been a passive victim in the events what have transpired in the South China Sea.

The Vietnamese government has carefully managed, and some might say manipulated, its image through the most recent dispute with China over the uninhabited group of reefs, atolls and islets known to the Vietnamese as Truong Sa (The Spratlys) and Hoang Sa (The Paracels). Both the Spratlys and the Paracels are claimed in their entirety, each by Vietnam, China and Taiwan. However, China occupies the entire Paracels group and the Spratlys are split between the three, as well as Malaysia and the Philippines.

It is often claimed that the latest round of tension began on 26 May, when Vietnam accused China of cutting cables on a seismic research vessel. News media have failed to note that in the month or so preceding the incident, a number of strange events occurred in the disputed territories—including strange late-night attacks on Vietnamese ships, fishing vessels mysteriously lost at sea, and a sudden and bizarre obsession by the Vietnamese media regarding the joys of daily indigenous ‘life on the islands’ (even though there are some military personnel but no actual Vietnamese communities living on the atolls and islets).

Early on Sunday, 5 June, I was with a high-ranking Vietnam official who disclosed to me that authorities had planned an event for later that morning. Police and some military from all over Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi were told to assemble at special locations in preparation. I was shown police loading equipment to block roads. I wasn’t told what the gathering would be about—at the time I assumed it was a routine police assembly. I would later learn that the event that was to happen in several hours was the first (since 2007) anti-China protests in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City over the South China Sea dispute. When the tweets starting showing up online about the protests, it was apparent to me that the government had orchestrated the whole thing.

Vietnam’s communist government allowed the protests to go on week after week, each Sunday morning. Such protests in Vietnam are extremely rare. However, in mid August the Hanoi government suddenly banned further demonstrations.

Interestingly, in the weeks prior to the ban, some protestors began to realize that they were being manipulated by the government all along.

‘On one hand, the government was manipulating protestors to do the will of the government’ one activist said (suggesting that Hanoi found the protests an effective tool in the dispute against China). ‘On the other hand, the government was also using the protests as an opportunity to root out activists.’

‘But it was actually people from the government who were instigating the demonstrations,’ said the activist. ‘Students in Thanh Nien uniforms [the government’s communist youth organization] were seen practicing their anti-China protests, just before the real protests would happen.’

It appeared to some that by the time the Vietnam government finally banned the protests, the only people left demonstrating were misguided and over-enthusiastic activists, and police out-of-uniform. Once citizen activists were identified, they could be detained and sent to prisons or 'rehabilitation clinics'.

Creepy Southeast Asia

2011-10-28T15:46:00.006+07:00

Sacred corpses, Demon guardians, eight-legged snack food and writhing magic serpents. Who needs Halloween--the following are 9 spooky things from Southeast Asia to help get your 'freak' on.

Southeast Asia has a number of festivals honoring the dead, including China’s ‘Hungry Ghost Festival’ (August 31 in 2012) and Cambodia’s ‘Pchum Ben’ (September 14-16 in 2012). Halloween, though it has been discovered by a few affluent locals, still hasn’t quite caught on in the region. Rest assured however, that if you are looking for something creepy to get you in the mood, there’s plenty of the bizarre, frightening and gross to be had in every country.

A fruit bad who has bitten off more than he can fly away with.

Bats: flying frugivores of terror

There are about 1,240 known bat species worldwide, most of which occur in the tropics. They account for about 20 percent of the world’s mammal species, but within southeast Asia they comprise an astounding 40 percent (although rats win by sheer volume). They range in size from Thailand’s Kitti's Hog-nosed Bat at 29-34mm long and weighing 2-2.6g (arguably the world’s smallest mammal) to the Giant Golden-crowned Flying Fox of the Philippines, with a wingspan of 1.5m and weighing 1.2kg. Smaller bats tend to eat insects while larger often live on a diet of fruit.

The one that got away. A Cambodian girl plays with a tarantula intended for the frying pan.

Bugs: bite or be bitten

There’s no escaping bugs in Southeast Asia, and quite a few—mosquitos, cockroaches, ants and termites to name a few—are a near constant menace in most areas. Some are dangerous, such as the quick and aggressive giant Vietnamese centipede, but others a fundamental to the local economy, such as the common silk worm. In many countries, bugs are also a healthy snack. The menu includes crickets and grasshoppers, bees, ants, beetles, scorpions, grubs and spiders.

The ‘haunted’ cave temple of Phnom Chhnork was built in the 7th Century, and is believed to be one of the oldest in Cambodia.

Caverns: temples, rebels and rock climbers

Southeast Asia has spectacular karsts throughout the region and many have been sites of ancient human habitation and burial. Some have been used for the profane, such as the ancient Funan temple in the Cave of Phnom Chhnork outside Kampot, Cambodia. Others were secret military bases, such as the caves of the communist Panthet Lao at Vieng Xai. The cliffs and caves of Railey Beach in central Thailand offer thrills for rock climbers. Others scare us in a different way, as in Ha Long Bay, where the Vietnamese show skill in identifying an enormous phallus in every other formation.

Bat ears, an enormous serrated tongue, and a third eye in his belly button make this temple deity a unique choice for worship.

Demonic Temple Statues: things people worship

Buddhism with an ample dose of Hinduism dominates many of the countries in Southeast Asia. Demonic statues and images comprise a pantheon of temple guardians, themselves meant to ward off evil spirits. These include goulish characters such as the Yaksha demon warriors at Wat Phra Kaeo in Bangkok, the many-headed Naga serpents of Angkor in Cambodia and other Hindu and Buddhist temples around the region, and the Foo dogs of Chinese Buddhist temples.

Dog meat on display in the market.

Meat Markets: carnage with fuzzy pets

Asia’s open-air meat markets are a gory spectacle that frankly, can’t be missed. In Chengdu, China, piles of bunny heads sit beside red and purple heaps of steaming entrails. In Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, pans of skinless frogs kick their legs in anticipation of the grill. In Thailand, dogs are rounded up and shipped (illegally) to the market chopping blocks in Laos and northern Vietnam. There’s plenty to turn a stomach as well as make great souvenir photos to gross-out your friends and family back home.

This statue of a fearsome Makara once adorned an ancient Cham temple.

Dragons: fierce and friendly

Chinese dragons have infiltrated many of the cultures in the region. Scaly and more serpentine than their European cousins, they are not considered evil, but rather a source of good luck, longevity and symbol of power. Dragons were usually associated with emperors, in both China and Vietnam, as well as the number 9, which also symbolizes longevity. However, in the Cham culture of Vietnam (and some other Hindu cultures), the dragon (known as a Makara) is a ferocious guardian and destroyer.

The final resting place of Ho Chi Minh in Hanoi, Vietnam.

Incorrupt Corpses: eternal sideshow

In Myanmar and Thailand, the corpses of Buddhist monks are occasionally put on display for worship. One of the more well-known is the ‘mummified monk’ of Wat Khunaram in Koh Samui. The most infamous celebrity cadaver however, is that of Ho Chi Minh, on display in his mausoleum in Hanoi. Allegedly Uncle Ho wanted a simple burial. However, the communist party was desperate to preserve their symbol, even in death, and called on experts in embalming from Moscow to assist. Normally open to tourists, Ho comes off the shelf once a year for ‘touch-ups.’

Dinh Thai Thim, the Sorcerers’ Temple, in La Gi, Vietnam.

Sorcerers: Harry Potter and the Nasty Tropical Illness

Shamans and sorcerers are not uncommon in southeast Asia; particularly in hill tribe minorities of Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam, as well as the jungles of Indonesia. Their ‘powers’ range from dispensing herbal remedies to warding off evil spirits. In the town of La Gi, Vietnam, a festival on the 15^th and 16^th days of the 10^th lunar month (usually October) is devoted to a historical husband and wife fugitive sorcerer duo who are credited with saving the town from a plague.

A medium in Quang Ngai performs a spirit dance, possessed by ‘The Goddess.’

Mediums: spirited performers

In many regional cultures, particularly those influenced by China, a medium or oracle invites spirits to enter his (or more often, her) body in order to gain wisdom or special abilities. Devotees sit around the medium, singing, praying and making offerings, as the medium works themselves into a frenzy. Once possessed, they leap to attention and may begin a spirit dance. The spirits are quite often ghosts of ancestors, though may be other types of beings as well. The medium then dispenses important messages to participants, as well as small presents of money and food, blessed with good luck.

Update on the Situation in Quang Ngai

2011-10-27T17:20:00.004+07:00

Sadly I must report that the situation in Quang Ngai still continues in the wrong direction. I’ve confirmed that in the days just prior to my latest post about my arrest there, more than one indigenous, Christian villager was tortured by police and sent to the hospital with serious injuries. It appears that they were beaten solely for refusing to give up their religious beliefs. These young victims were taken from the general vicinity where I was arrested, though I am withholding their identities, ethnicity and precise locations for their protection. Indigenous tribes and Christian families in Quang Ngai remain under intense surveillance.

I have also confirmed that about 1 week ago, in neighbouring Quang Nam Province, police hired a group of approximately 20 thugs to attack church members in Phu Quy village. Several people were seriously injured. Church members called the police emergency hotline during the attack but received no response.

In related news, The Guardian is reporting that freelance journalist Dustin Roasa was detained and expelled from Vietnam after interviewing pro-democracy activists for a January story and then recently attempting to re-enter Vietnam. The two interviewees have fled the country and are seeking political asylum. Roasa is at least the 3^rd foreign journalist to be detained by the communist government and expelled from Vietnam this year over political and human rights issues.

Vietnam’s Great Wall, Harold Camping, The Muong Nhe Massacre & Me

2011-10-21T11:22:00.005+07:00

An American Is Never Quiet

Chapter 1

Vietnam’s Great Wall, Harold Camping, The Muong Nhe Massacre & Me

By Adam Bray

Adam Bray (me) pictured at the ruins of a military fort along the Long Wall in 2010.

In the USA, a radio preacher by the name of Harold Camping predicted the beginning of the end of the world would occur on May 21, 2011. When things didn’t go as planned, he modified his prediction and claimed the world would actually end on October 21; five months later. While the rest of the world saw the first prediction come and go without consequence, a mysterious and troubling event, closely related to Camping’s prophecy, occurred in northern Vietnam.

The following is a story of an American journalist and travel writer (myself) who was wined and dined by Vietnamese communists at one moment, then arrested and interrogated by them the next. This account not only uncovers the brutal treatment of minority groups by the government of Vietnam, but also presents a new context in which to re-examine the events of the alleged ‘Muong Nhe Massacre’ of Hmong Villagers by the Vietnamese military in the early days of May 2011. These villagers had allegedly gathered in anticipation of Camping’s first prediction.

Dinner with Communists

The government-sponsored conference on the Long Wall. I'm seated under the red arrow. This photo appeared in local newspapers and the images were broadcast on Vietnamese television.

On Friday, May 6, through Sunday, May 8, 2011, I attended a conference and ceremony to inaugurate the Long Wall of Quang Ngai as a new Vietnam national monument.

The Long Wall of Quang Ngai is a recently-discovered, 200-year-old rampart, spanning nearly 130km in Central Vietnam. While the wall itself isn’t very old, it was built to guard an ancient trade route once used by the Champa Kingdom, connecting several ancient port cities and a variety of ethnic groups. Perhaps more important is the discovery of the historical and cultural context surrounding the wall, which sheds much light on the development of central Vietnam, than the physical monument itself.

The provincial government had invited me to attend these special events because they were pleased with a story about the Long Wall that I had recently written for CNN. By that time I’d also written another story for BBC, which the government was equally pleased to learn about. A third story would later appear at CNNGo, by the end of the month.

Across the aisle from me sat the aged communist leaders.

During the conference I sat across the aisle from the old guard; the aged communist war heroes and retired government officials that helped found the ‘liberated’ province of Quang Ngai. In other words, ruthlessly patriotic, ex-Viet Cong. Though no longer in office, their approval was vital to winning support for the development of the Long Wall as a tourism attraction, in an area where tourists were previously unwelcome.

In the evening I was honoured with the gracious hospitality of the heads of the People’s Committee (the governing body of Quang Ngai), including Mr. Nguyen Hoang Son (at that time the Vice Chairman of the Quang Ngai People’s Committee), and Mr. Nguyen Hoa Binh, the head of the province’s Communist Party at the time.

This was highly unusual. Not only was I a foreign journalist—and the only one invited to such an event in this remote, retro-Marxist, backwater—a place made famous by the horrific events of the American-instigated My Lai Massacre, but I was after all, an American. Fraternization between government officials and foreigners—let alone an American journalist--without official documents of authorization is forbidden by the Communist Party.

Mr Binh (left) and Mr Son (right) at the conference.

At dinner I knocked my beer glass with Mr Binh and Mr Son. Mr Binh introduced me to the local brew; Dung Quat Beer. Mr Son coaxed me to try the tiny fried sugar cane birds (a delicacy of the province), guts and all. I was announced at the events like a VIP, right along with the guest speakers, scholars and archaeologists. I was rather shy when I was even given what I considered the best front-row seat at the inauguration ceremony. I would also appear in the local newspapers and television broadcasts that weekend.

One of several delightful group dinners.

When the ceremony was finished I made it known that I would stay on for a week, by myself, and visit sights of tourism interest around the province. My hosts were well aware of my considerable body of work (I’d published more than 20 guidebooks on Vietnam and Southeast Asia by then) and so they were pleased that I was giving their province so much attention.

Betrayal in the Mountains

Beautiful Quang Ngai countryside, and one of the last things I tweeted before the police came.

My first day trip would be out to visit the countryside west of the Long Wall, stopping at various ethnic minority villages for photos. Quang Ngai has a number of ethnic minorities, including the Hre (who are believed to have been most involved with the construction of the wall), Ca Dong (related to the Stieng) and Cor. One of the unique aspects of the Long Wall is that scholars believe it was built in cooperation between the Vietnamese and local hill tribes. Thus, understanding the diverse cultures leaving near the wall is vital to understanding the historical context of the wall, as well as exploring possibilities for future tourism development.

Once in the mountains however, I ran into serious problems. I was traveling by motorbike with several local friends who served as guides and translators. We stopped in a village and within minutes we were approached by secret police. I’d made trips into the mountains of Quang Ngai numerous times over the years as part of my research for guidebooks and travel articles. I’d never had any problems in the mountain villages before.

Secret police. Officer Dinh Xuan Sang and officer Dinh Van Hanh were the first to arrive. As 'christian hunters' they root out protestants in minority villages for harassment and interrogation. They would reappear later in police uniform.

First came one police motorcycle, then another, one more, then a jeep full of officials, followed by still more motorbikes. Eventually 35-40 policemen and officials were in attendance. Again and again I explained to them that I was there with the knowledge and invitation of the government. I showed them photos, government business cards—anything I had with me from the conference and ceremonies to prove that I was on official guest.

Most disturbing however, was when I tried to call Mr Son. I managed to reach him, but he told me that he was sorry, because he was ‘in a meeting and was too busy to help.’ I felt more than betrayed.

We walked up a tall hill. I was exhausted and dehydrated in the hot sun. The police were yelling and call me a liar. They refused to even attempt to verify my information. I was told that I was being arrested.

My friends were forcibly separated from me, their motorbikes illegally confiscated, and they were dragged to a secret location. The man in charge—who’s real mission I would learn later—was laughing and walked around shaking hands and congratulating the other police and government officials present. They had caught their ‘big American prize.’

One of many police escorts corralling me.

I was put in a car but I didn’t know where they were taking me. I was concerned I might be secretly delivered to a remote police station and held at length—maybe days--for interrogation. Another expat friend told me how he was once held by the Vietnamese military for several days in a remote location, without even being allowed to call his embassy.

As we slowly drove through the mountains, I saw that police had set up roadblocks and cut off all roads leading into the district. Nobody was being let in or out. The situation looked dire.

“How could this ALL be just for me?” I wondered. ‘This couldn’t be real. Why was all this necessary to catch one person—even if I actually was doing something wrong?”

The three officials in the car never spoke to me. They only snickered and whispered to each other.

A Tweet for Help

“Help! 25 Police have arrested me in Quang Ngai. Please call USA embassy. Take me to secret place.”

This tweet, posted on May 10, went viral on Twitter. Friends and followers inundated the US Embassy and Consulate with calls. I knew my phone only had a few moments of battery left so I frantically typed only the most essential details. Originally I said there were a total of 25 police, but upon further reflection in the car, I realized the number was closer to 40. A few more tweets followed before my phone finally died.

My iPhone had a few minutes of battery charge left, so when I came into reception range I frantically posted a few SOS messages on Twitter (which also re-posted on Facebook automatically), urgently pleading with anyone who was listening to help me by contacting the American Embassy and let them know what had happened. Thank God for the GPS feature that also pinpointed my location with those tweets.

A few friends saw the messages and called me, relaying the message to the Embassy and even my family in the USA. Although my phone died after a few minutes, I later learned that both the US Consulate and Embassy had been inundated with phone calls on my behalf, creating an overwhelming incident that the State Department had no procedures to deal with at the time. By the time my family was alerted and called the embassy themselves, the embassy already knew who I was and why they were calling—my family didn’t even have to give my name. I have no doubt that Twitter, my iPhone and all of my friends played a big role in behind-the-scenes events that helped ensure my safety that day. I owe everybody a big thank-you.

After a two-hour drive, I arrived in Quang Ngai City and was delivered to the heads of Immigration and the police department. Again I explained myself to the officials and gave them the names of my government hosts. They wouldn’t hear of it. They refused to call the government officials who had invited me. They said they didn’t believe me so there was no reason to even attempt to verify my story. I was called a liar and a spy, and repeatedly insulted by the administrators.

In total I spent about 7 hours in custody, without access to water or a toilet, but was finally released at the end of the ordeal, without any charges. One of the policeman admitted that my story ‘seemed to be true.’

I was told that I could continue my travels, but that ‘foreigners are not allowed to travel outside the cities in Vietnam without an official guide.’ I knew this wasn’t true but I got the impression that they planned to enforce this, at least with me.

Before I left the office I insisted that the police release my friends, and return their two motorbikes. I was promised ‘On the Honour of the Quang Ngai Provincial Police Department’ that my friends had already been released and taken home. Later that evening I learned that the word of the police department was worthless. My friends had been taken several hours into the mountains, interrogated, and dumped in the jungle overnight by the police, without food, water or shelter, and told to wait there for more interrogation the following day. Like most of mountainous Vietnam, the jungle there is infested with dengue and malarial mosquitos.

One of these friends, a young university student, had helped me locate the Long Wall for the first time, on an earlier visit to Quang Ngai in November 2010. He was instrumental in my research for CNN and BBC articles, and would later be pictured in my article for CNNGo.

Trouble In The North

It might seem insane, to any rational person, that a government would invite a foreign journalist to help promote a tourism attraction, and then send a mob of policemen to arrest him, a la ‘The Jewel of The Nile” (1985). Insane that is, if it weren’t for a grave incident secretly occurring just days before, in the far north.

About a week later, on May 17, Human Rights Watch would issue a call for the Vietnam government to investigate the military’s response to unrest among ethnic Hmong villagers near the border with Laos.

“On April 30, 2011, thousands of Hmong began to gather near Huoi Khon village in Muong Nhe district of Dien Bien,” wrote the rights group on their website. “On May 4 and 5, Vietnamese military troops and helicopters moved in to suppress the assembled people. There are unconfirmed reports that dozens of Hmong were killed or injured. The authorities sealed the area and refused permission to foreign diplomats and journalists to travel there.”

While rejecting reports from foreign news agencies about any unrest in Muong Nhe as ‘erroneous’, Vietnam’s communist party posted a notice on its website nonetheless, trying to explain it all away.

“In fact, from April 30 to May 6, some extremists in several localities in Muong Nhe used cunning to incite and cheat about the appearance of a “supernatural” force, to lure and coerce thousands of Mong people from everywhere into gathering in Huoi Khon village, in Nam Ke commune in Muong Nhe, in order to execute a scheme to undermine the great national unity block,” read the communist government’s statement.

“Local authorities in Muong Nhe then mobilised agencies and mass organisations to take measures in accordance with Vietnamese law to prevent further extremist acts, which had included formation of the extremists' own guard units, blocking the ordinary travel and daily activities of local people in the area as well as the operations of local authorities, detaining on-duty officials, and expressing conditions and claims against the laws of Viet Nam.”

As if the above statements weren’t self-incriminating enough, the Vietnam government continued, “A few elements which committed acts in violation of the law were temporarily detained for re-education.”

The eventual fate of these religious-political prisoners is unknown, as the government has not allowed them to be interviewed or even released their identities. I would observe in a future, unpublicized clash between Vietnamese riot police and civilians however, that ‘a few elements’ does, at times, number into thousands of villagers.

A reliable count of casualties at Muong Nhe has never been determined. The government admitted none. Some human rights groups claimed dozens killed. Others alleged hundreds. Most suggested that thousands of Hmong villagers had fled into the jungles and were unaccounted for.

On May 27, the Vietnam government finally bowed to pressure from foreign diplomats and human rights groups, allowing a small group of foreign journalists to come on a government-led tour of Muong Nhe, where the incident was said to have occurred. The journalists were only allowed to speak to individuals chosen and prepped by government officials. Journalists were not allowed to travel on their own.

Many Hmong are protestants but some groups are reportedly influenced by cults, due perhaps to their relative isolation and lack of doctrinal education. According to UK-based Christian Solidarity Worldwide (CSW), the Hmong ethnic group have "a mythical belief in their culture that a messiah figure will appear and found a Hmong kingdom." Hanoi feels threatened by this union of political and religious belief, and in response, routinely attempts to root out any outward display of either among the Hmong people.

A number of sources have said that the prophecy of American preacher Harold Camping, who caught the world’s attention by claiming Jesus would return and the world would end on May 21, was instrumental in the timing of the gathering. The thousands of villagers were apparently waiting for the arrival of their savior on the date set by Camping.

During the tour, Ian Timberlake, reporting for AFP, saw ‘a military truck loaded with armed soldiers travelling away from Muong Nhe district where the Hmong gathered.’ Continuing, Timberlake wrote, “It was not clear what the troops' mission was but the truck's tell-tale red army licence plate had been obscured, and the soldiers were concealed under a tarpaulin.” Despite this observation of armed military units at the site, the government denied using any force or violence to quell the crowds.

Not So Different

Police raid a private residence and threaten and arrest students who are praying together. I have blurred the identities of victims in the following photos to protect them.

Timing and gross overreaction was not the only commonality between my arrest and the alleged “Muong Nhe Massacre.” The government has a long history of intense persecution of Christian minority groups in both areas.

I later learned that the official who personally oversaw my arrest and supervised the police response was an official from the government’s Department of Religion. So fearful was the communist government of any contact between Christian minority groups and the outside world that they had ordered police to spy on me throughout my stay in Quang Ngai, and orders were sent to follow and apprehend me as soon as I left town and ventured near ethnic minority areas.

Many of the communities west of Quang Nhai City, as well as those located in the surrounding provinces of Kon Tum, Gia Lai and Dak Lak, are indeed protestant Christians.

I learned that the official who oversaw my arrest was charged with rooting out these protestant minority groups. Locals claimed that he interrogates Christians personally, and that he tried to force them to sign documents renouncing their Christian faith and promising to cease attending church meetings.

He and other government officials accuse villagers of ‘following America’ when they attended church. Police tell villagers that Christianity is the ‘religion of America.’ Residents said they were told by police that ‘Vietnam only has one religion: the Religion of Ho Chi Minh.’

Some residents also accuse the local government of misappropriating foreign aid on these grounds.

“Christian families never receive any government aid. They are so poor.” One man told me.

“The government takes aid from foreign organizations and they always give it first to the villages that were loyal during the war… the villages with Viet Cong who died or Viet Cong that killed American soldiers,” complained another resident.

I visited this minority village in 2008 as part of my research for Insight Guide Vietnam 2009. Pictured here is a simple church where the village worshipped.

Here the government brings in heavy machinery to destroy the church. The crime? It was a church.

More destruction of the church by the government.

The spot where the church used to be.

Cold, wet, hungry, impoverished, and now these Christian minority children have no church.

Sources have identified several of the police officers who were sent to arrest me, as men who previously burned the houses and churches of Christian villagers living in Quang Ngai. Along with destruction of property, residents claim that the police killed many families’ farm animals.

“Many Christians have been imprisoned and repeatedly beaten for refusing to renounce their faith or give up church attendance,” one man lamented.

It is important to note that in my many visits to Quang Ngai over the years, I have never observed any indication of political disobedience among the local villagers, whether they be Christian, Buddhist, Animist or Atheist. Across the board, their interests have always appeared purely religious. The government feels threatened by protestants because it perceives Christianity as relic of ‘American Imperialism’ and as such a de-legitimization of their absolute authority of the hearts and minds of the local people. The communist government doesn’t know how to differentiate between politics and religion.

Conclusion

I believe that the government arrested me for two reasons. The first is that they feared the consequences of the alleged ‘Muong Nhe Massacre’ and worried that I might be coming into a Christian minority area to incite a similar incident. The government has long alleged ‘foreign influences’ in uprising among minority groups—and it was an American, Howard Camping, who gave the Hmong the idea about the end of the world, after all.

Secondly, the government, unaware of my many previous visits, finally noticed me and was afraid of what they thought I might discover: the communist government’s on-going policy of oppression of minority groups--particularly Christian minorities.

Taken together, I believe that the government’s behaviour casts serious doubt on its claims that ‘nothing happened’ in Muong Nhe. If nothing really happened that week, then why treat me like royalty one moment, then send up to 40 police to arrest me and seal off an entire province district—just because it is also inhabited by other Christian minority groups?

I should note that at every step of my arrest, detainment and interrogation, the officials stopped and called superiors for instructions and authorization. It is my understanding that the order to detain me—and also the orders to torment local Christian and minority villagers—came from top provincial officials. In fact, given the events that would follow, it was apparent that these orders originated from Hanoi.

Adam Bray is a freelance writer and photographer for guidebooks published by: Insight Guides, DK Eyewitness, Berlitz, Thomas Cook, Time Out, AA, ThingsAsian, Footprint, and more. He has contributed to nearly 25 books on travel in Vietnam and Southeast Asia. He has also contributed a variety of articles, interviews, photos and other content to BBC, National Geographic, CNN International and CNNGo.com.

Inquiries from media and publishers are welcome. Please email: “info AT muinebeach DOT net” (all one word, AT = @, DOT = .).

Adam Weighs in on ‘The Actress’ Appointment as Vietnam Tourism Ambassador

2011-10-09T18:53:00.016+07:00

Ly Nha Ky presses her two compelling arguments for national sovereignty, known as Truong Sa and Hoang Sa, respectively, against the general. 'Fight for the Spratlys, General Giap!'

Vietnam has found itself in yet another petty, self-inflicted media scandal over the appointment of Vietnamese domestic actress Ly Nha Ky as the new ‘Tourism Ambassador’ for Vietnam’s National Administration of Tourism. We are told that her duties are diverse, but in actuality authorities don’t appear to have thought beyond the gimmicky contest this month for the ‘New 7 Wonders of Nature,’ in which Vietnam’s Ha Long Bay is a contender (Shhh… don’t tell them that the only people paying attention to the contest are National Tourism Administrations in other countries).

Apparently there’s been a bit of a public argument over Ms. Ky. First Tuoi Tre Newspaper complained, with a rather captivating photo, that she nearly smothered poor General Vo Nguyen Giap with a bit of exposed cleavage in a Communist propaganda film aired on TV. Shameful to ‘abuse’ our war heroes like that… just shameful… I guess… Can I be a war hero?

Next the online VietnamNet Bridge decried that her name was too Chinese. The Vietnam government has used it’s state-controlled media to subtly whip up anti-Chinese sentiment ever since the two nations started fighting over a few often-submerged, uninhabitable coral reefs out in the South China Sea earlier this year. We can’t have an allegedly part-ethnic-Chinese half-breed model screwing around with appearances of alleged national sovereignty… or national tourism now, can we? What if she invited China to invade Ha Long Bay again? There goes our big 7 Wonders certificate and the plastic trophy. Nasty dirty Chinese.

Then again, Tuoi Tre fussed that Ms. Ky lied about her college degree. Apparently some Viet Kieu they talked to over email said the university didn’t exist, so then Tuoi Tre googled it and couldn’t find the school… big scandal… or just shoddy journalism. Not sure which.

But I am sure the manufactured hissy fit won’t stop there.

The Head of the National Tourism Administration has defended his daydream fantasy, I mean professional appointment, by telling the press that ‘It’s not like she’s killed anybody’ and that ‘an education isn’t a requirement for the job.’ But apparently being really, really, super hot, bilingual and charismatic, and foxy, and talented and having a gorgeous bodacious body, is.

Not only does the appointment of Ms Ky, but also the clueless and irrelevant public outcry that followed, together reflect that sad fact that Vietnam’s Tourism Industry is a rudderless ship headed for the rocks (and to be quite honest, I can't help but wonder if the Vietnamese media has actually faked the whole 'public outrage' bit anyway--wouldn't be a first).

Don’t get me wrong. I love Vietnam. Of any country in Southeast Asia, I’ve always thought it has the greatest potential for tourism. I also think Ly Nha Ky is probably a fine, capable, lovely young woman and professional. But who?... I’d never even heard of her until this ‘scandal,’ and that’s the real problem.

Vietnam’s Tourism Administration and various National and Provincial Departments of Tourism, Sports, Culture and Extended Coffee Breaks, all have absolutely no clue who their audience is. They know who they’d LIKE to attract: rich people who spend a lot of money. But this xenophobic government office has never spent time seriously analysing who actually does come to Vietnam, and what those people really want. They’ve only thought about what they, the government, want. They’ve also never consulted both the foreign and domestic tourism companies serving the international tourists who visit Vietnam.

Every tourism season is a grand mystery to the Tourism Administration. They just sit back and wait to see what happens. Its not even a game of chance because they don’t even have their hands on the cards. It’s more like Russian Roulette and someone else is pulling the trigger.

So, OK Vietnam, you’ve got Ly Nha Ky now. So use her. I have no doubt she's at least as good of a talent choice as any of the other Vietnamese candidates. But why not add someone else to the mix that your audience will have actually heard of? Pair her up with Bobby Chinn, Anthony Bourdain, Luke Nguyen, Dustin Nguyen or Johnny Tri Nguyen… even an Angelina Jolie or Samantha Brown. Get SOMEBODY with some international notoriety who has a personal connection to Vietnam (and would probably be very honoured to be asked), and pair them up with Ms Ky and make this happen. Two people would be much more effective than one anyway. Its not like Vietnam’s neighbours haven’t tapped into famous celebrities too—why can’t Vietnam try to learn from other’s once in a while? Do we really need to repeat everyone’s mistakes? Problem is, other than the latter two Nguyens and maybe Jolie, I bet our xenophobic (yes I did use that word twice now for emphasis of the paradigm) tourism officials have never heard of these celebrities. And that’s the other problem.

My favorite Swimming Hole Now a Stagnant Cesspool

2011-09-09T19:27:00.001+07:00

I just read an update on my once-favorite swimming hole. It was a spring located far in the mountains behind a Raglai minority village called Phan Dung (east Binh Thuan Province). Apparently the new dam is now 'finished' and they've discovered the water has all gone stagnant and undrinkable--and don't think it will get better. Along the way a whole pristine jungle valley was destroyed, villagers displaced, and I suspect ancient Cham archaeological sites destroyed. Progress in Vietnam...

What they have now (above): stagnant water source, unsightly dam with shitty construction, destroyed forest and crumbled hillsides.

What they had before (above): pristine jungle, pure water source for drinking (and swimming). Heaven. Gone forever.

Thanks commies.

Endowed by Their Creator: Thoughts on Ho Chi Minh's Independence Declaration

2011-09-01T18:57:00.004+07:00

Ho Chi Minh's Crypt. His preserved corpse has been on display there in a glass case since his death in 1969. Occasionally it comes off the shelf for touch-ups, with rumored trips to see Moscow specialists in embalming.

"All men are created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable Rights, that among these are Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness."

An insect collection with a bat

So Ho Chi Minh began his Declaration of Independence Speech for the Democratic Republic of Vietnam on 2 September, 1945 in Hanoi’s Ba Dinh Square.

A salmon mounted on a plaque

His choice of opening statements is profound, not only because he quotes the Declaration of Independence of the United States, a future mortal enemy, but also because it betrays his own ignorance and incomprehension of the values expressed in America’s founding document.

A poorly taxidermied squirrel

The profound importance of this line from America’s declaration is not, as Ho Chi Minh misunderstood it, the establishment (or the bestowing by the government) of these three fundamental rights.

A frozen Butterball Turkey

Rather, the unprecedented significance of this statement is the acknowledgement of the very source of these rights—almighty God—rather than any man or ideology.

Frozen fish in a supermarket

Ho Chi Minh’s communist behemoth rations these rights (or rather ‘privileges’ since the regime believes they can be abused by the common masses) in proportion to one’s obedience to Marxist institutions and their ideology. In contrast, the founding fathers of America believed that no man has the power to bestow or rescind these rights. They are endowed by our Creator.

A jar of pickles

Ho Chi Minh’s blind ignorance to this glorious principle is evidenced by the fact he omits the opening refrain of this statement: “We hold these truths to be self-evident…” The writers of America’s declaration of independence were acknowledging the pre-existence of these ordained rights as a gift from the Almighty. Marx, Lenin and Ho Chi Minh himself can no more grant Life, Liberty or the Pursuit of Happiness than Jefferson, Adams or Franklin. The wisdom of the latter three is that they knew this.

A macaque in a jar of rice wine

Help Save a Dying Hill Tribe Girl in Binh Thuan, Vietnam

2011-08-27T17:30:00.001+07:00

06.09.11 UPDATE: The German humanitarian organizations Stiftung WHH and Kinderstern eV have offerer to cover the operation for Sron. If this happens, all collected donations will go back to these organizations so that other children in Vietnam like Sron may also get assistance with their hear surgeries.

Dear Friends, while I don't personally know Sron, I know Daniel and I know Sron's village well. Sron lives in a K'ho (Co Ho) village north of Phan Thiet in the mountains. The people there are very poor and most live in bamboo stilt houses, making a meager existence out of the jungle (I've previously posted photos from the area in this blog). I endorse Daniel's cry for help for this poor girl. Please help him make a difference.

Dear readers. My name is Daniel Freiberg, I'm from Ulm, but since 2009 I’ve been living and working in Viet Nam for ICS, the largest destination manager in Vietnam. Guests of THE TOUR TUI in the last two years who have visited Mui Ne might remember me; I am "your guide" in Mui Ne. In two years I've experienced much in Vietnam, but also much poverty. Until recently, I was always able to provide direct support myself, it wasn’t too much of a financial burden in my situation.

But in the case of Sron K'Thi, I can not help her all by myself.

Sron K'Thi, aged 13

The now 14-year Sron K'Thi lives with her 48-year-old mother and five siblings in Dong Giang, a village in northern Binh Thuan Province (famous for the seaside resort of Mui Ne). In this remote area live the Co Ho, one of the 54 officially-recognized ethnic groups in Vietnam. The family of Sron belongs to this minority. Most minorities live in rather poor conditions, often only on agriculture. The family of Sron is very poor.

Sron’s father died 14 years ago in a traffic accident. For the death of her father, the family received a tiny house as compensation because the driver happened to be drunk. Until 2 years ago the family that lived only on agriculture, but 1 hectare of its 1.5 hectares farm land was taken from them without compensation. Now land belongs to a company with a rubber tree plantation. On what is left of the family’s land they plant corn, with an annual yield of 7 million VND, which is about 300 €. Sron’s mother can neither read nor write.

I met the small Sron for the first time in 2010 on a motorcycle trip to Dong Giang. My Vietnamese friend, Phu, and I often go to the area to take clothing, medicines, etc. to distribute among poor families. Back then when we first started, we did not know that Sron was seriously ill.

When we visited again in April, after a long break, I noticed that Sron was extremely thin. When we asked them what was wrong, they said she had a bad heart. We wanted Sron as quickly as possible to visit the provincial hospital in Phan Thiet, but only on the 17^th of August this year were we able to get her there.

Why so late?

Sron’s family lives on agriculture. Every hand is needed. Both Sron and her cousin with her, had to go to the hospital, thus depriving the family of 2 workers. In addition, the family has to pay to pay for their food, lodging and hospital bills on top of their poverty? After months, we finally earned the confidence of Sron’s mother, and she has accompanied her daughter to the hospital. In addition to Sron’s heart failure, she was also diagnosed with pneumonia.

"If Sron does not receive heart surgery soon, even if she survives her pneumonia, she will die!"

Sron in the hospital now

The 14-year-old Sron K’Thi now weighs just 20kg. Her heart is enlarged. She is almost too weak to eat. When I saw her at the hospital, I could hardly hold back the tears. She must be urgently operated on in Ho Chi Minh City. This operation is not free: according to the treating doctor in Phan Thiet, this will cost around $ 3000.

$3,000 for a young life.

Dear readers, please help little Sron. If you want to help, write me an e-mail: Daniel.vct @ gmail.com If you live in Vietnam, you can call me anytime: 01285083828. My friend, Phu, is sleeping in the hospital with Sron.

Backstage at the Village Opera

2011-08-23T16:01:00.000+07:00

I took these photos during a typical traditional Vietnamese opera performance last month at the whale temple in Phan Thiet. The performers graciously let me walk around 'backstage' and get a lot of great candid shots.

About to enter the stage

Just finished make-up

An audience fixated

Lights! Drums! Microphones! Action!

Opera baby

Bed Bugs & Vietnam's Government Hotels + Comments on Tourist Deaths in Chiang Mai

2011-08-21T16:48:00.013+07:00

An adolescent bed bug, nearly full-grown.

As a child living in America, I grew up saying goodnight with the refrain, ‘Don’t Let the Bed Bugs Bite!’ As kids we thought it was cute. Everybody ‘knew’ there were no real bed bugs. They were like the monster that lives under your bed or in the closet; just childhood stories… right?

As an adult living and traveling in Asia, I came to know the real terror of these little demons. As Newt tells Ripley in the movie ‘Aliens’: ‘There really are monsters.’

In recent years an infestation of bed bugs has spread to New York. Bed bugs were eradicated in the USA decades ago, but international travellers have brought hitchhiking bugs from the developing world. The beasties crawl inside travellers’ bags and this way spread from hotel to hotel and continent to continent.

TV newscasters often comment on bed bug stories in disgust, saying how much they hate the creepy crawlies, comparing them to the roaches or ants in their boyfriend’s apartment. I assure you, these newscasters are fruity, clueless idiots who’ve never seen a bed bug in their life. Bed bugs are evil vermin spawned from all that is vile and horrific. Lock me in a tiny bus station toilet with a thousand roached but please don’t sentence me to another hotel room with a solitary bed bug!

Vietnam was the first place that I ever encountered bed bugs. The bugs can show up just about anywhere and in any country (as I recently found in Cambodia), but Vietnam's government-run hotel chains such as Saigontourist, OSC Vietnam, Vietsovpetro, and Petrovietnam (almost any pricey hotel with "Saigon" or "Petro" in their name), with their relatively low standards, are a real concern for the possibility of encountering the bugs. Once the bugs infest a hotel room, they are very difficult to eradicate and can turn a holiday in a government hotel into a real nightmare.

What do bed bugs look like?

Bed bugs are small. They look like a cross between a tiny beetle and a tick, but they are rust-colored, ranging from orange to red and shiny. Easy to see when they move, but small ones are very difficult to spot if they remain motionless. They range in size from 5mm to nearly invisible to the naked eye.

What do bed bugs eat?

In short, your blood. They prefer to feed about every 5-7 days, but they can live for up to one year without a feeding. This makes them very hard to eradicate because they can get a meal then go hide somewhere else in the house. Bed bugs find their victims (us) by a mix of carbon dioxide, heat and other chemicals.

Where are bed bugs found?

They aren’t called bed bugs for nothing. They prefer to live close to their feeding station (us), and the most convenient spot is in and around our beds. When infestations are severe however, the bugs spread further around the house, and can be transported when they hop on board pets, bags or clothing.

How do bed bugs behave?

Bed bugs don’t like bright light or open spaces, so they usually run for cover when they find themselves in direct light. Contrary to popular belief, while they are fast, bed bugs are easily visible, caught and stomped on. They don’t move at supernatural speeds. They will hide anywhere available, whether that is the mattress, bed frame, or in and under objects around the room. They leave loads of digested, dried-blood laden feces in areas where they live. These deposits can be found in cracks and crevices where the bugs are. Bed bugs communicate using pheromones and give off a distinctly strong odor when disturbed (or squished).

How do bed bugs reproduce?

Bed bugs require sexual reproduction, and it is very violent. The male stabs the female with a sword-like penis and injects his sperm directly into her abdomen. The female lays eggs in hidden cavities in beds and other safe spots, and are a common source of re-infestation even when adults have been killed by exterminators.

Skin on an arm afflicted with numerous bed bug bites.

What are bed bug bites like?

Bed bug bites appear like bright red mosquito bites but can remain itchy for several days and cause rashes and blisters. A natural anaesthesia administered in the bug’s saliva prevents the victims from feeling the bite when they are first bitten. Soon after, the itching sensation becomes intense. A common sign of bed bugs or blood (that is, your blood) spots and streaks on the mattress in the morning after a night’s sleep.

How do you get rid of bed bugs?

This is the hard part. First, clean the room, vacuum all effected areas and dispose of the vacuum bag outside in a sealed container. Open the windows and turn the lights on. Allow light to permeate the effected room. Put your mattress out in the sun on a hot sunny day. Bed bugs thrive on dark, dirty environments, so this helps a lot. It is best to bring an exterminator to spray the effected items and rooms. In a pinch, spraying rubbing alcohol in effected areas does kill the bugs that come in direct contact. Extreme cold and heat also kills bed bugs. If you can put infested items in a walk-in freezer overnight or in a hot car sitting in the sun for a few hours, that should kill both the bed bugs and their eggs. Be sure to wash all clothing and fabrics in very hot water as well.

How can I prevent bed bug infestations?

Check the mattresses in your hotel for bugs or feces in the folds of the mattress. Check the sheets for signs of old blood stains where the bugs have previously bitten guests. Mattresses sealed in plastic covers are safest to use.

Could bed bugs be a link to the tourist deaths in Chiang Mai Thailand?

There have been a series of ‘mysterious’ deaths of foreign tourists in Chiang Mai, Thailand this year. Investigators have been unable to come up with a definite cause, though recently pesticides were proposed, and this is interesting because the tourists who died all stayed together in just a few hotels. When I heard about this, my immediate suspicion is that the hotels could have used unapproved chemicals, in desperation, to get rid of bed bugs while the guests were out during the day. Hotels panic whenever there is an infestation, so this seems like a logical thing to investigate.

'Rise of the Planet of the Apes' Reviewed by an Ape Expert: Me

2011-08-13T15:14:00.006+07:00

In the late 90’s I worked as a chimpanzee caregiver (a bit like being a zookeeper) at the Primate Foundation of Arizona, where I worked with roughly 80 chimpanzees. Later I did a short stint at The Language Research Center, where I worked with half a dozen bonobos (pygmy chimpanzees) and an orangutan. In my free time, I’ve also had some experience with various monkeys, gibbons and gorillas.

It was with great anticipation that I went to see Rise of the Planet of the Apes in Phnom Penh. Cambodia has 2 brand new cinemas; the first in the country. I went to the impressive Legend Cinemas in City Mall by the ‘Olympic Stadium.’

The basic premise is that a scientist named Will Rodman (James Franco) is trying to develop a cure for Alzheimer’s Disease, motivated by his father’s (John Lithgow) own illness. Rodman engineers a virus, which is tested on Chimpanzees with promising results. An accident at the lab occurs however, and the project is temporarily shut down, leaving Rodman to care for a remarkable infant chimp, Caesar (Andy Serkis), in his own home

First the visuals: The effects in the film are spectacular. The incredible attention to detail was in no way lost upon me. Weta Digital (Lord of the Rings, King Kong, The Hobbit) worked their magic to create truly life-like creatures (its my understanding that almost every ape shot in the film is CG Animation). The effects crew accurately depicted the variation and individuality of natural apes, right down to their broken teeth, cataracts, torn ears and bald spots from excessive grooming in captivity. The most impressive characters visually were the male orangutan, followed by Caesar’s chimp rival in the sanctuary, and the first chimp given the second viral trials at the lab. Caesar’s appearance was somewhat more human than a normal chimp, but this is acceptable given he is a bit of a mutant in the film.

Behaviour: As an ex-primatologist, this was the thing that I was most interested to observe and critique, and perhaps one of the most difficult to replicate with CG animation.

Caesar. His movements and behaviour were somewhere in between human and chimpanzee—which is again acceptable because he is the subject of a genetic experiment and raised by humans. He’s also much more nimble at times—particularly as an adolescent (when Andy Serkis obviously wasn’t modelling him)—than a true chimp.

The Orangutan. Spot on. The character was hilarious to me because everything about him, from his movements, gestures and attitude, was typically orang.

Chimps. In general, everything was very life-like. The facial expressions, vocalizations, gestures—all of these require specific contexts and carry meaning for chimps--and this was all well executed. One particular oversight I seemed to notice however, was that the chimps’ hair did not always bristle when they were aggressive, as it naturally should.

The ‘permission’ gesture. In the film, Caesar asks Rodman for ‘permission’ to go play in the forest by extending his hand upward. The gesture is then re-used over and over again in the film. This is indeed a real chimp gesture—more accurately used for ‘re-assurance’ of approval in a tense situation when a subordinate is unsure of himself in the presence of a dominant chimp.

Finger biting. In the labs and sanctuary the chimps would grab staff members and pull their arms inside the cages. In one scene, a protective Caesar bites the neighbour’s finger off. This brings back a lot of memories. This is a constant danger for care staff working with chimps. Countless times I’ve had chimps grab my clothing, boots or arm, and try to pull me up against the cage—sometimes even working as a team of 2 or 3 chimps. Most of the time this is just for their own amusement because they know this freaks the staff out and they enjoy the excitement. However, the danger is always that the chimp will get caught up in the excitement and bite the staff. Several colleagues of mine have lost fingers. It’s pretty common for chimps themselves to be missing a finger or toe or two from the same sorts of incidents.

Grabbing the knife. In one scene, Caesar pulls someone close to the cage, pretending to fool around, but secretly steals their pocket knife. Chimps don’t need an unnatural IQ boost to pull this off. On many occasions younger chimps would fool me be gesturing that they wanted the fruit in my hand, coax me closer to the cage, then use their other hand to snatch the keys out of my pocket. They didn’t do this because they wanted to use them to escape, per se, but rather because they know this was an object I desperately did not want them to have. They received endless enjoyment out of trying to keep the keys away from me, laughing all the while, much as a human child would do. Similarly, baby chimps loved to steal my eyeglasses. It was an endless source of joy to swing from the top of the cage, laughing, and knowing this was the one object Adam most didn’t want them to have. I had a secret weapon however: mommy. If their mother was in the cage too, I just showed here a piece of fruit then pointed to the baby. The mother always knew what I wanted. Immediately she would reach over to the baby and snatch the glasses, handing them to me in exchange for the fruit. Meanwhile baby drops to the floor screaming, flailing his arms and legs and having an infantile temper tantrum.

The sanctuary: This is the part of the film that I actually have the most quibbles with. The layout was odd. While the indoor cages were fairly true-to-life, the large group play-area was highly unusual. I’m not aware of any facility that would have such a large, indoor room. Those kinds of areas are always outdoors. Perhaps an indoor enclosure was chosen because it was an easier environment to work with for computer effects. The electronic cattle prods in the film would never be used under any circumstances in such a facility. Not only is it cruel (and I believe it violates USDA regulations, if not the regulations of every facility that I am aware of), but it would also be resented by the chimps and reinforce negative behaviour (as seen in the film). Also, the food for the chimps would not be so poor. Chimpanzee diets in captivity are quite complex and varied. Of course, all of these things are devises used by the filmmakers to support the ultimate rebellion of the apes.

Caesar’s introduction to the group. No facility would just throw a new chimpanzee (Caesar) out into a large group of other chimps, as was done in the film. Introductions are done slowly with close monitoring, just one or two chimps at a time. There could be deadly consequences if what was done in the movie was carried out in real life.

Behaviour in the sanctuary. In real life, there would have been much more fighting with so many chimps in a small enclosure. There would also be a lot of what, in primatology, we call ‘stereotypes’. The chimps would have exhibited negative behaviours like rocking back and forth (much like mentally damaged human children), drinking urine and eating faeces—and most notably, there should have been faeces smeared all over the walls. In a real sanctuary, those pretty wall murals would never last—they’d be perpetually covered in shit, even if they were cleaned every day. Whether Weta Digital intentionally left this out so as not to gross-out the audience, or because they’ve never observed this behaviour (facilities never want the outside world to see these things—especially not on television), well, they’d have to answer that.

Sanctuary staff. The character of Dodge Landon, played by Tom Felton (Harry Potter), was very unusual for someone who works with primates. While Felton did a fine job with the character that he was given, and his mean-spiritedness provided part of the motivation for the apes to rebel, in real life a chimp caregiver would never behave as such. These jobs are highly competitive, in short supply, and are paid very poorly. Someone has to truly want to be there—to love the animals and be entirely devoted to them—to be there in the first place. Perhaps this can be explained away in the film because the character is apparently the son of the sanctuary owner, rather than a willing employee.

Final Verdict: Overall this is a great film. The story was captivating, the actors were well-selected for their parts, and the apes were most endearing. I had a great time and enjoyed every minute. The compassion often showed by the apes to their human counterparts (who deserved a good thumping), as well as the limited blood and controlled level of violence makes this a suitable film for families. I highly recommend it, and I’m likely to see it again at some point myself.

Open Letter to the Government of Vietnam

2011-08-12T12:54:00.001+07:00

The government has long been an obsessive follower of my work, so I have no doubt that this letter will be read promptly. I hope that the response will come as swiftly.

I will try to keep this note brief and to the point, without unnecessary details. My patience and reserve thus far should not be mistaken for an absence of substance to elaborate upon.

I have been directly and deeply insulted and also severely mistreated by select members of the Vietnam government, both personally and professionally, over a long duration.

The fact that these members of the Vietnam government are aware of the numerous publishers and media outlets that I work for makes their contemptuous treatment of myself and my associates all the more profound, with significant ramifications. The message that these individuals have directly and intentionally delivered to me also demonstrates an active and deep-seeded loathing of not only Americans, but also foreign tourists and expatriates in general.

It is my sincere hope that the majority of Vietnam’s leadership does not share this sentiment. I hope that the offending officials shall be shown as rogues, and thus appropriately disciplined for their actions. I likewise hope that Vietnam will take this critical opportunity to demonstrate its commitment to international relations and tourism, and seek reconciliation.

In regard to national tourism, I am the best friend that Vietnam has ever had, and will ever have in the future. I will always remain a friend of the Vietnamese people.

Sincerely,

“Mr. Mui Ne”

Adam Bray

Contributor to more than 20 guidebooks for Vietnam and Southeast Asia, sold throughout the world. These include Insight Guides Vietnam, Berlitz Vietnam, DK Eyewitness Vietnam & Angkor Wat, Thomas Cook Vietnam, and many more. Contributor to CNN International, CNNGo.com, BBC Travel, and National Geographic Traveler.

The Adventures of Adam Bray & The Land of Nop: Pt 2

2011-07-17T19:27:00.000+07:00

In case you missed it, view Part 1 of this adventure here.

Here we have a second ancient Cham temple ruin. The government found this one and excavated it about 2 years ago. It also likely dates from the 8th or 9th century. As usual, the government looted when they wanted from it, then left it fallow for the cows and farmers to run all over it. Surely it won't last long now.

This corn field is growing on what was tropical rainforest a few years ago. Slash and burn agriculture is taking villagers further into the jungle each season and destroying this precious habitat.

Obstacle 4: the road has gone from path to riverbed now. Soon I'll have to abandon the motorbike.

I enter a bamboo rainforest. The villagers tell me that in this area a man was just discovered, having been missing for a few days, eviscerated with his brain removed. I shudder a little. I hope I haven't entered the scene of the next Predator movie! Stories abound in the countryside of evil men who kill travelers and children, and sell their organs--to be used in magical rice wine brews by the wealthy and powerful.

A giant jungle millipede. These guys are everywhere and feed on dead and rottering plan matter. They are relatively harmless, though highly poisonous if a predator tried to eat them.

Giant spiders... these lovely ladies, with legs like chopsticks, have a very large range. I've seen them in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand. if I'm not mistaken, I think they are bird-eaters.

Giant river crabs... I'm told they are edible but they taste like mud. They actually have very cute personalities. There were about 10 of these males (the females are relatively tiny and lack the giant claw) in my swimming hole. I slept in the waterfall for about an hour. I woke up with this fellow poking me in the leg. I think he was trying to see what I was.

My swimming hole, taken from a little waterfall above. There were at least three kinds of fish in the pool--who were very inquisitive and loved to help me eat the bread that I brought for my picnic lunch.

This stretch of jungle was one of the most wild that I've encountered in Vietnam, actually. There were wild birds everywhere squawking, singing and fluttering about. Unfortunately most of the time that's not true--the jungles of Vietnam are usually completely silent because all of the birds and other animals have been hunted and removed from the forest wholesale. Its a worrying situation and villagers and authorities alike don't seem to care.

As I left the forest to return home, a villager stopped me and asked if I was there looking at the river for the government. I asked him why he thought that. He said that 5 years ago, the government announced that it planned to build a dam and flood the gorge, creating a reservoir, and destroying this unique jungle habitat--just as they have many of the valleys and gorges throughout the Central Highlands. One by one all of these spots are being lost--and so are the wild plants, animals, archaeological and cultural treasures of the people who live here.

Want more adventure and great photos? Read the whole adventure thread here.

The Adventures of Adam Bray & The Land of Nop: Pt 1

2011-07-17T17:56:00.005+07:00

Last week after recovering from pneumonia I hopped on my motorbike and drove north to the land of Nop. As best as I can tell, the people of Nop, where are a clan of the K'ho tribe, only live in the mountain foothills of Binh Thuan Province, Vietnam. The K'ho tribe are Mon-Khmer, which basically means their language is related, long ago, to Khmer (Cambodian).

The purposes of this adventure were lighthearted--namely to check some ancient (more than 1000 years old) temples from the Champa Kingdom, and explore a gorge leading into the jungle and find a waterfall pool to swim.

My trusty steed for the adventure.

Obstacle #1, an old wooden suspension bridge. The Vietnam countryside is full of these, thankfully, because it makes road trips much more interesting. Clackity clackity clack all the way across...

A Nop woman with a heard of goats. Though they now live in what was once Cham territory, I don't believe Nop were actually wards of the old Champa Kingdom back in antiquity. Instead they were apparently friendly neighbors, who traded with the Cham were at least bilingual, speaking both K'ho and Cham.

Obstacle #2, sometimes pot holes in the road get out of control.

An ancient Cham temple that I discovered in Ham Tuan Bac district in 2009. If it's as old as other Cham temple ruins in Binh Thuan Province, it could date from the 8th or 9th Century. Cham were all Hindu at the time and worshipped Shiva and other hindu gods and goddesses. Sadly, the government recently found the temple too, and about 7-8 months ago it appears they conducted a very slopped excavation to loot any antiquities they could uncover, leaving the temple unprotected. If nothing is done to preserve it, it will collapse very soon and be lost forever.

On to the Nop villages where they are celebrating the rainy season and praying for a good harvest. This is done with joyous feating and offering to the spirits. This beautifully ornamented, woven object is a symbolic hut and offering to the house god of a Nop family.

Similar in form to the sacred trees made by highlands tribes, which they (but not the Nop) create for buffalo-stabbing festivals, this decorated pole is an offering to the spirits of the Nob ancestors. The fence is designed to keep animals out, rather than in.

The torch in the middle is lit with fire and then blood is poured into two small (and difficult to see) bamboo spouts near the ground. This blood offering is made to the earth gods of the Nop.

Continuing on we meet Obstacle #3, a bull guarding the path. Actually, he turned out to be a big sweetheart.

Stay tuned for part 2, which will be appearing above next. I visit another temple, charge through the jungle, run into some interesting critters, and encounter tales of gruesome murder...

Despite Warner Brothers, Enjoy The Harry Potter Experience: Vietnam Style

2011-07-16T14:41:00.006+07:00

This season Warner Brothers demonstrated that they understand the spirit of Voldemort inside and out—and much like his Dementors, they have sucked the joy out of Vietnam’s children—young and old. Are you bummed about Warner Brothers’ decision not to screen Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows Part 2 in Vietnam? Below are ten ways you can still enjoy the Harry Potter Experience: Vietnam Style.

Get your invitation to Hogwarts by Owl Mail. Believe it or not, Vietnam does have owls. Lots of them in Ho Chi Minh City, even. They feed on the polluted city’s many diseased rats. Vietnamese don’t generally share the same affection for owls as Harry Potter. To them owls are harbingers of death and other bad omens. More likely than an owl, your letter will be delivered by a questionable mailman demanding extra money for, uh, um, ‘expat tax.’
Just like Harry Potter, you can make some new best friends on your way to the train station. Every corner in downtown Saigon seems to have a smiling goodwill ambassador from the Philippines… and they’re always up for a good conversation, a cup of coffee, and a rigged card game with a US$10K pot.
Hop aboard the Hogwarts Express! Yes, we have a great old train, but it’s actually called the Re-unification Express (Shhh… It doesn’t go to Hogwarts either… It goes to Hanoi… sorry… you’ve got to use your imagination!). You might even encounter magical escaped animals on the train, like king cobras, scorpions and giant centipedes! They don’t belong to students however—they are brought on board by wildlife traffickers.
On to Hogwarts! …well …ok, the Hanoi Hilton. Really! It’s a nice place! They played tennis! ...Oh, don’t mind the guillotine or the images of torture. There aren’t any celebrity professors here, but hey, they had John McCain!
Magical symbols are everywhere! Stars, swastikas, hammers, sickles, lotuses, cameos of messianic figures, and tiger beer girls… much like death-eaters, brand yourself with the right combination and you’ll find yourself in all the right circles, moving up the ranks.
Christmas vacation… well, most Vietnamese are into Tet really. Thank goodness there’s no fruitcake. Instead we have heavy, slimy green logs made of gelatinous rice, gooey globs of pork fat and green bean puree. Yum!
Potions… yes! Many Vietnamese love a good magic brew—especially for Vietnam’s chronic erectile dysfunction and male virility issues. Here the ‘medicines’ are called ruou thuoc. Made with great things like human placentas, deer penis, bear bile and monkey foetus, it’s a whole lot scarier than the Hogwarts version, too.
Magical creatures… you are in luck! Vietnamese love them. There’s writhing dragons, prancing ky lan, dancing lions, soaring phoenix… and in the heart of Hanoi a giant turtle with a much publicized skin infection. Don’t get too close!
Next head for drinks on over at… well we don’t have a Leaky Cauldron, but we do have Bia om! It’s a Vietnam institution—beer and hugs! And you must admit that the waitresses look better in a mini-skirt than a goblin played by Warwick Davis.
Lastly, head on over to Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum. Uncle Ho and Dumbledore are a lot alike. Both died heroes in their old age, unmarried, and had a special fondness for young students. Like Uncle Ho, Dumbledore also will be preserved for future generations to enjoy, and looks equally fabulous on repeat viewings.

Danang Hospital Recommends Goats

2011-07-10T14:36:00.002+07:00

Below is a very rough translation of a rather outlandish article on the Danang Hospital website. A few sections were rather hard to understand, largely due to how poorly they were originally written, and so have been omitted. I think you'll get the general idea. So before you head to a Vietnamese hospital for any serious treatments, remember this, which you can try yourself at home first... hahaha.

From the Danang Hospital

Goats: Nutritious folk medicine & treatments

Goats are omnivorous animals, and as such parts of their digestive and reproductive organs are very strong. Each morning out of a barn, a male goat can have sex with many goats. Females can live long and give birth many times; each litter can have many babies. So popular is the concept of goat dishes improving one’s health, and particularly sexual function.

1. Goat Meat.

According Mr. Hai Thuong Lan's Medicine Series, goat meat is sweet, hot, and non-toxic. Goat meat puts the body in a positive direction, makes one warm and improves mental function. If you eat 30 - 40g/day of dishes made from goat meat, it will make you stronger, eliminate back pain, cleanse the blood, and reduce excessive sweating. Goat meat is often quite good prepared with the ginger and garlic. Mr. Hai Thuong Lan advises eating goat meat with onion, garlic and shallots. Vegetables and warm pepper complete the prescription. Particularly, garlic and shallots with goat work to strengthen the kidneys; eating goat meat can also treated renal impairment, fatigue, and knee pain. The general effect is to nourish the blood with oxygen.

2. Goat Blood Wine.

Have the goat stand straight, shave the neck fur and disinfected the area with alcohol, Poke a knife into the neck artery (avoid poking into the esophagus). When the blood sprays like a faucet, remove the head, put some alcohol into a jar, and then fill it with all the blood. Drink it right away. Be sure the goat is not sick and is full grown. For an even better effect, add to the wine cinnamon, ginger, and orange peel. Another good remedy is to mix honey and blood wine. Blood wine is good for cleansing one’s blood.

3. Goat testicles.

Choose big males but avoid old goats. Eating goat testicles is good for the kidneys and curing impotence. People often use alcohol with testicles – Goat testicles make an interesting wine: take the testicles, the kidneys, the penis, cutting into thin pieces, marinated in garlic, mix in an earthen pot then simmer on a plate. The heat of the wine will mature the testicles.

For goat testicle hot pot: stew lotus roots in a pot of water, add lotus seeds, and bulbs. When the water is boiling, add goat testicles, kidney, and bone marrow. Do not cook the meat too much, which will reduce the effect. Goat testicle hot pot is a very exciting drug and very strong.

4. Goat Kidney.

Cooking goat kidney is similar to cooking other kinds of kidney (such as pig). However, goat is usually baked or steamed with onions. The dishes are suitable for the treatment of depression, hearing loss, and sweating.

5. Many stomach.

Goat stomach is very salty like that of other omnivorous animals. However, gastric goat stew or porridge can treat poor digestion and nausea after meals. Note, those with stomach and duodenal ulcers should not use this item.

6. [Ommitted]

7. Goat can be substituted with snake meat, minced, cooked in a pressure cooker and bones crushed. Mix with heart and cleansing organs, finely shredded and dried. All can be pureed, mixed, and is good for the skin, Drink 5 - 10g/day.

Mui Ne: Month in Round-Up

2011-07-01T13:12:00.001+07:00

On June 4^th we lost Krasovsky Andrey Sergeevish, better known as Andrey, in a traffic accident. Andrey, with his wife and young child, was the owner of Dejavu Restaurant in Mui Ne. He was much loved in our community and is missed greatly.

The new high-speed boat service from Phan Thiet City to Phu Quy Island met with serious problems earlier this moth when the hull was smashed by waves on its second voyage. The boat was varying 175 passengers, including tourists, on the 5-hr journey. The hole in the ship was reported to be 2 square meters in size and several windows were also broken, allowing seawater to flood into the passenger hold. The ship belongs to Huong Phuc Company, was licensed by the Vietnam Marine Administration, and was purchased in Australia. The incident comes as a significant blow to transportation efforts out to the island.

On a more positive note, a new golf cart service has started in Mui Ne, with rates from 10,000-30,000 VND, spiriting passengers between the Cham towers and the Red Sand Dunes. Additionally, Rang Dong is beta-testing a helicopter service between Sea Links and Saigon, initially priced at $500 for a round-trip. That’s a steal if you ask me.

Several times in the last few months we have received reports of snatch-and-run thieves in Mui Ne. Last weekend there were at least 3 incidents in a single day. The thieves appear to be operating as a pair on a single motorbike, and targeting women. They apparently search for women riding bicyclea, knock them off balance and then snatch their bags.

It is most likely that these thieves are part of a gang visiting from Saigon or Nha Trang on the weekends, when there are large numbers of out-of-town tourists in Mui Ne. Unlike District 1 Saigon, Vung Tau and Nha Trang, where such crime is very common, Mui Ne does not have a history of this, and it is vital that we do not allow it to take hold. No level of this sort of thing should be considered acceptable. If you are a victim or have witnessed this crime in Mui ne, or have any information about the identity of the criminals, please contact me.

In archaeological news, the Binh Thuan Antiquities Department took possession of a an earring from the Sa Huynh Culture on 30 June. This civilization is believed to have occupied much of coastal Vietnam from 1000BC to 1AD, and to have been the forerunners of the Champa kingdom. The earring is a typical design--two deer or goat heads with long horns, facing away from each other on opposite ends of a scale. Unfortunately the province has no official history museum, so the artifact may never actually go on display.

On June twelve there was a riot in Mui Ne. Due to the sensitivity of the situation I will not go into the details of how the riot started, other than say there was an altercation between police and a local resident. Also it’s probably helpful to mention that this is a local incident and not related to regional issues currently in the international news.

On that Sunday, more than one thousand people congregated at any given time around the police station in the middle of Mui Ne Beach, although probably several thousand people came and went during the course of 7hrs. Only a small subset of those present actually participated.

As reported in the local newspapers, two police motorbikes were destroyed, one of which was burned along the side of the road. Rioters parked trucks full of rocks outside the police station, which they used to heavily damage several police cars and jeeps, and hurl at the building.

After 11pm several squads of more than 100 riot police in full gear were called in to disperse the crowds with tear gas and non-lethal stun/flashbang grenades. According to local newspapers, more than 30 people were later arrested and 4 are now in prison, though it appears many more have been detained since.

The incident came as a great surprise to those of us that live here, as Mui ne does not have a history of such things, and after all, this is the resort capital of Vietnam!

Please note that while I always welcome comments on this blog, comments on the riot will have to be moderated and anything sensitive may be read by me but withheld from posting.

Joshua Gates from Destination Truth, & Other Strange Beasts Lurking Vietnam

2011-06-30T22:38:00.004+07:00

Earlier this week Joshua Gates, star & host of the Syfy Channel’s ‘Destination Truth’ tweeted that he was in Ho Chi Minh City.

The show, broadcast in the USA, and known as ‘The Monster Hunter’ in the UK, deals primarily with cryptozoology (the search for strange animals of rumour and legend, whose existence has not been proven) and the search for the paranormal. The show is a blend of international travel, entertainment and ‘real life’ science fiction. The show is well done and indeed enjoyable to watch, though at times is more of an excuse to visit exotic locations and highlight outlandish stories than execute a thorough scientific exploration of credible mysteries. This is TV after all.

Last month Syfy issued a press release stating they’d ordered a 5th season of Destination Truth, in which Gates would ‘descend into one of the world's biggest caves in the jungles of Vietnam to search for phantoms.’

Undoubtedly the cave reference is regarding the newly discovered Son Doong Cave at Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, Quang Binh Province. Whether the crew will actually get access to that cave is doubtful. There has been an onslaught of film crews visiting the cave since its announcement, including National Geographic and the BBC. Access to the cave undoubtedly requires a mountain of paperwork and a bit of waiting in line. The crew are more likely to have to substitute one of the better-known caves nearby, which are no less spectacular, if a little smaller.

As to hunting ‘phantoms,’ there’s some room to speculate on what Gates is looking for. He could be referring to ghosts or spirits of the ancient Champa kingdom that once used the caves. Indeed, there are Cham inscriptions in some of the caves, dating more than 1000 years. Vietnamese and Cham folklore is full or ghosts, monsters and spirits that haunt the jungles and caverns.

Another possibility, which Gates might be hunting for, is the nguoi rung, or forest person. The creature is Vietnam’s own version of Bigfoot. The stories most often come from Vu Quang nature reserve, a point of discovery for many amazing new animal discoveries, including the Saola (often called the Asian Unicorn, though it has two horns), and the Giant Muntjac. There are stories of similar hairy hominids lurking in the forests of Cambodia and Laos.

In my professional opinion as an ex-primatologist, it’s likely that this Vu Quang Beast is, or was, a real, living creature. There were species of now-extinct orangutans which once lived in Vietnam, and I think it’s possible that this creature is related.

More recently, tales of a new ferocious beast have come out of Quang Ngai. Many dogs have been found eviscerated and with their heads torn from the body. Nearby are large cat-like prints. Could the Beast of Quang Ngai simply be a rare tiger that’s wondered far from the jungles? Or is it a forest demon waiting for a visit from Joshua Gates?

There are a number of other rare, nearly extinct, and mysterious animals in Vietnam. Some are attributed mystical powers in folklore, but their existence seems to be grounded in reality. These include the Javan Rhino (the last individual may have been killed by poachers in 2010), the aforementioned Saola, the Hoan Kiem Lake Turtle (The remaining specimen in the lake was confirmed and captured in 2005. A total of 5 individuals are believed to still be living worldwide) and the Kting Voar. The latter is the Cambodian name for a mysterious ‘snake-eating cow’ with a spotted coat and long twisted horns, which lives in the jungle.

Additionally there is a pantheon of mythical beasts from Buddhism, Confucian legend and Taoism, such as the chimeric kylan, which often find their way into local lore. Likewise, the Cham and other minorities have their own list of mythical beasts, including the ferocious dragons of Champa, known as the makala. These however, will have to wait for another story.

Observing the Observer

2011-06-23T18:06:00.003+07:00

What happens when you turn the tables and observe the observer? Hilarity ensues.

This man is a secret police who's job it is to spy on expats. He was one of the people assigned to follow me in Phan Thiet after I was arrested in Quang Ngai. Most cities where foreigners reside in Vietnam have a full-time designated officer (or team) who's job it is to monitor the foreigners who live there. The cops were a little presumptuous to think I wouldn't notice someone spying on me in the places I've hung out for years. I screwed up his cover when I turned the tables and began snapping away.

Me, the Chubby Frog and an Iphone

2011-06-23T13:16:00.002+07:00

Definitely one of my favorite critters, the Kaloula pulchra, otherwise known as a 'chubby frog' or 'Asian Painted Frog' only comes out locally during rainy season. Absolutely adorable, they prefer to crawl on all fours more than hop. Though chubby like a toad, this frog is an accomplished climber. Probably they need this ability because of how cluttered the forest floor is, where they spend most of their time. This gal climbed all up and down my arm and even up on top of my head, carefully and methodically, without ever making an attempt to jump.

Their skin is smooth like porceline and beautifully colored with brown, tan, cream and black stripes.

Chubby frogs are voracious eaters and will swallow anything they can get in their little mouths. Unfortunately they are also popularly eaten by locals, and so beginning to disappear. Folks in Mui Ne catch all sizes and boil or steam them, cutting out only the stomach muscle, then gobbling the rest.

Saigon Blackjack Scam Update

2011-06-22T14:45:00.001+07:00

Below are two new photos of a member of Saigon's Filipino blackjack mafia. This lady can commonly be seen in HCMC District 1, particularly in the Pham Ngu Lau area, preying upon tourists.

Today CNNGo posted an expose on Saigon's Filipino blackjack mafia:
http://www.cnngo.com/explorations/life/vietnam-blackjack-scam-exposed-812667

Last month Thanh Nien newspaper posted a great story exposing the gang here:
http://www.thanhniennews.com/2010/Pages/20110522182739.aspx

If you'd like to help spread the word and protect Vietnam's tourists, you can download this flyer below and post it in your place of business or favorite hotel, restaurant, cafe or tour company. This is just a few of the group members. Click on it to see a larger version.

Saigon's police department now knows many of the faces, names and addresses of gang members. lets hope they move in on them soon and clean this mess off the streets. It will be nice to have them in jail.

Contest: Be Anantara’s Roving Elephant Reporter!

2011-06-21T18:27:00.003+07:00

Anantara Hotels, Resorts & Spas is launching an international youth competition to search for a Roving Elephant Reporter aged between 7 and 15 to ensuring that the King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament (Sept. 4-11, 2011) celebrates its tenth anniversary from a truly unique point of view.

The young winner will become a media star in the making as they report on the week long event and much, much more, as well as enjoying an all expenses paid seven night stay at Anantara Hua Hin Resort & Spa, Thailand, with an accompanying adult, including return air fares.

The winner of Anantara’s hunt for a Roving Elephant Reporter will become a star of the ele polo circuit, delivering international coverage of the captivating games from a VIP pitch-side seat. Exclusive interviews with Cherry the Elephant Vet and Director of Elephants, John Roberts, will allow the Roving Elephant Reporter to investigate behind the scenes with Anantara’s most experienced elephant gurus. In addition to commentating and meeting the pros, an audience that includes the almighty All Blacks rugby players, and perhaps even a member of royalty, will also offer chances for celebrity spotting.

Beyond the gripping trunk to trunk action on the field and famous spectator faces, the Roving Elephant Reporter will explore the Hua Hin area to report on journeys rich with local discovery. Anantara’s presenter will visit the exquisite teak wood palace of love and hope - Maruekhathaiyawan - one of the oldest and most treasured royal palaces in Thailand. An elephant trek through a local vineyard will also invite the reporter’s parent to refresh their own adventurous spirit with an expert tasting session. A specially devised kid’s cooking class will see the correspondent master the art of one of the world’s most popular cuisines as they recreate simple Thai dishes that appeal to their tender palate. While a day spent playing in the gentle waves of Hua Hin’s long golden shore will round off the privileged press trip in Thailand’s royal seaside town.

To enter this elephantastic competition, simply submit/upload a short video lasting between one and two minutes to www.facebook.com/anantara

Press “Like”;
Go to ‘Share’ on the main wall
Click ‘Video’, where you have a choice of recording a video with your webcam or uploading a pre-prepared video and tell us why you should be chosen as Anantara’s Roving Elephant Reporter.
Alternatively, mail the CD to I Want To Be An Elephant Reporter, Anantara Hotels, 18th Floor Berli Jucker House, 99 Soi Rubia, Sukhumvit Soi 42, Bangkok 10110, Thailand.

The contestant with the best video entry, as voted by our elephant experts will be invited to spend seven fun filled nights on a full board basis with an accompanying adult at Anantara Hua Hin Resort & Spa, including return flights, accommodation, daily activities and transport.

Tell the world your amazing elephant tales with Anantara as your guide.

Terms & conditions:
Contestants must be aged between 7 and 15 years

Videos must be between 1 and 2 minutes long
Contestants may be of any nationality, but present their video in English
Entries must be submitted by August 1st
The competition winner will be announced on August 4th, 2011
Must be available to participate in the tournament from Sept 4 – 11, 2011
Contact organizers for full terms & conditions

Update on the Long Wall of Quang Ngai

2011-06-02T17:43:00.002+07:00

My latest story on The Long Wall of Quang Ngai is now available on CNNGo. It's also been featured on the front page of CNN.com for the last couple of days. I also gave CNN an interview about Vietnam's 'Great Wall,' which should air on CNN International any time now.

I've also posted a new website for The Wall, available at www.LongWallofQuangNgai.com.

Lastly, Tuoi Tre, the national newspaper, has adapted my original BBC story for Vietnamese ESL students here.

Enjoy!

Snakes on a Train

2011-05-31T13:08:00.000+07:00

As I boarded the train in Quang Ngai to Muong Mang with food poisoning last week, I made a crack on twitter about it being just like a Samuel Jackson movie, but without the really cool black guy. Or any toilet paper. Little did I know it really could have been a sequel to his movie, 'Snakes on a Plane.'

The story was all over the Vietnamese newspapers this week. Today its caught on in the international news media. A man tried to smuggle 45kg of venomous snakes (mostly king cobras) on board a passenger train in Quang Ngai. Here in Vietnam, wildlife trafficking is so common they don't count the number of animals--they count the number of kilos.

The deadly snakes were stuffed in mesh bags, apparently underneath the seat (or bottom bunk). When discovered, they caused such a commotion that the smuggler supposedly fled the scene without being caught. That or he paid someone off.

Some news media have reported that Vietnam is now 'on alert' over the incident, searching for other smugglers. I assure you, this is a gross overstatement. Local authorities mentioned that they would be keeping an eye out for similar smugglers on the train or highway for a grand total of... about one week following. Don't get your hopes up.

Other media have also reported that the snakes mouths were sewn shut and that after being confiscated, they were released into park land. According to sources, the cobras weighed about a kilo each. Can you imagine the smuggler sewing the mouths shut on 45 king cobras? How about untrained, probably unqualified park rangers removing the stitches on the mouths of 45 cobras? I sure can't. Lets use common sense. I don't really believe either of these claims.

Some have remarked that its really no big deal because the snakes must have been secured. In fact, train attendants never check baggage on the train. If they noticed the snakes at all, it means they weren't secure.

Cobras are protected under Vietnamese law. Yet we have a thriving industry selling bottles of rice wine with dead cobras stuffed inside, and serving cobras beating hearts and bile in glasses of wine to tourists. You can even ask all the most popular celebrity chefs, travel show hosts and guidebook publishers. They all recommend--put it on their TV shows and in their books. Yet these animals were all trafficked from the wild. Sadly the people who should be protecting Vietnam's last shred of wildlife are all turning the other way.

So before you buy that souvenir snake wine (which incidentally will potentially carry hefty fines should you be stopped by customs when you enter your country), consider the additional cost of that bottle: riding with, Snakes on a Train.

Quang Ngai's Cham Connection

2011-05-29T19:22:00.004+07:00

The Province of Quang Ngai, home of Vietnam's "Great Wall," was once part of the Champa Kingdom. Apart from the hidden Chau Sa citadel walls, and some hard-to-find ancient temple ruins, the Cham connection isn't immediately obvious. On my most recent visit to Quang Ngai this month, I stumbled upon some interesting links though.

Above a Vietnamese shaman, or spirit medium, summons the spirit of 'the godess' (likely 'Tien Y A Na,' a deity borrowed from the Cham and known to them as Po Nagar) and dances around the room. Just a couple of weeks earlier, Cham holy men do exactly the same thing for the Cham New Year festival known as Rijanugan. I don't think this is a coincidence. Vietnamese have borrowed the religious activity from the Cham.

Thien An Pagoda, on a small mountain between the city of Quang Ngai and Chau Sa citadel, overlooks the Tra Khuc River. As such it meets the ideal conditions for an ancient Cham temple complex. Indeed, though the Vietnamese apparently destroyed the temple when the took over the area about 500 years ago, scholars have determined there was indeed a very large temple complex on this site. Interestingly, Vietnamese president Huynh Thuc Khang is buried on top of this ancient holy site.

This Vietnamese temple is kept by a local family, and honors the first Vietnamese governor of Quang Ngai, who ruled the area about 500 years ago.

His idol is pictured here. To his left (not pictured) is the idol of a man said to be his friend and assistant. Also honored and worshipped. The dark-skinned man in red turban and robes very clearly appears to be a Cham dignitary of some sort.

Quang Ngai, the Lost Photos

2011-05-29T18:44:00.003+07:00

While in Quang Ngai I did some scouting to get photos from the Province's lovely countryside and visit their beautiful hill tribe villages. I'll just say it was a very eventful day.

Following the river along an ancient trade route into the mountains. It was used by Chinese merchants to trade with hill tribes like the Hre, Ca Dong, Cor, Sedang, Bahnar and others. These villages still exist.

The river valley extends in the other direction to the far distance, where a village of stilt houses sits on its banks.

This was one of the rare villages I've encountered where the residents spoke very little Vietnamese at all. I don't just mean they had their own, separate minority language. Thats normal. These people could hardly understand any of the Vietnamese my local friends were speaking at all.

Carving the road out of the mountainside and clearing landslides. Difficult driving.

Shall we cross?

I'm a little bit afraid to walk across the floor inside this stilt house. That's a 4-foot drop underneath the floor.

Beautiful storehouses in a hill tribe village. In other villages inhabited by different tribes, these don't necessarily serve a practical purpose. In fact they may hold offerings for spirits.

Inauguration Ceremony of the Long Wall of Quang Ngai

2011-05-29T00:10:00.005+07:00

Earlier this month I was invited by the government of Quang Ngai Province to attend the inauguration ceremony of The Long Wall of Quang Ngai to become a National Heritage Monument. This included a seminar on 6-7 May about the development of the Long Wall for tourism, followed by the actual ceremony on 8 May. Below are photos from the event.

Here I am at a 500-year-old fort near the wall.

Local Hre ethnic minority members, invited to the ceremony and holding the National Heritage certificate.

The National Flag, adding some, perspective, to the event.

Exaltation of the National Heritage certificate.

Drummers imitating the ethnic Hre musical style.

Christopher Young from English Heritage making recommendations on preservation of the wall, based on his experience with Hadrian's Wall in the UK.

Here I am (you can see my bald head on the left in the middle) at the government meetings about The Long Wall. I'm so generously seated on the left, next to the VIP speakers. On the right are the 'old guard;' that is, the retired government leadership who still wield considerable influence. Standing up in the middle is Mr. Son, the Vice Chairman of the People's Committee (the governing board of the province). To his left is Dr. Hardy, the remarkable archaeologist who discovered The Long Wall.

Again you can just barely see me seated in the middle left. These two photos above come from the local newspapers.

For more, check out other entries on this blog for Quang Ngai, as well as the new website for the Long Wall at www.longwallofquangngai.com.

Starbucks Coming to Vietnam in Force

2011-05-08T17:21:00.004+07:00

I heard today from Ben Chua at www.vietnam720.com, that the CEO of Starbucks mentioned on an upcoming CNBC interview that Starbucks will open up shop in Vietnam in 18 months.

There's been rumors of this for quite a while (along with McDonalds & Burger King, so I'll take it with a grain of salt). Nonetheless, welcome to Vietnam, Starbucks, if you do come. But I'll issue you the same challenge that I have to others, like Circle K--please show us what you can offer us that we don't already have here in Vietnam. We have a lot of great chains already--some of them home grown like Trung Nguyen and Highlands--and others are imports like Coffee Bean and Angel in Us (though that name always makes me think of a little pearl fish going in and out the rear of a sea cucumber). Please don't come with merely a famous brand name and expect that to carry you... Please also don't drive the price of coffee up through the roof and kill our local coffee industry... which is one of the biggest in the world--actually its second only to Brazil. Actually, I'd like to hear how you will directly support Vietnam's coffee industry by buying local as much as possible, investing in local farmers (not merely buying them out, of course), and supporting environmentally friendly and sustainable farming (lets not chop down what very little is left of the forest). I also want to hear what kind of unique coffee or food products you will sell to cater to local tastes and bring the Vietnam theme into your cafes--whether that is merely in Vietnam--or even abroad.

Anyway, I'd love to hear more directly from Starbucks about their plans in Vietnam.

We've had quite a few fast food imports to Vietnam, especially recently. Carl's Jr and Subway have been great surprises. Good service and excellent food. Despite the question of whether a Subway could go head to head with a banh mi, well, Subways taste nothing like a banh mi but they are nonetheless awesome.

I'm glad Pizza Hut is here, but overall the pizza is rather tasteless, less than generous with toppings, and overall blah. But then it is in the USA too. I haven't had the pleasure of the new Dominos. Its not exactly in a convenient location.

Not so much so with Kentucky Friend Chicken. I'm a fan of KFC, and the food at their restaurants in Cambodia rocks, but in Vietnam, all I can say is YUCK. Did your secret herbs and spices get seized in customs, Colonel? Time to go back to the drawing board with you Vietnam operation. Popeyes Chicken, Vietnam on the other hand, definitely wins the taste test.

Some day soon I expect we'll see a Dunkin Donuts or Dairy Queen too... but there haven't been any announcements.

So Starbucks, show me what you got.

A few More Saigon Blackjack Mafia Photos

2011-05-04T16:46:00.000+07:00

Below are 2 new photos of the Filipino "Blackjack Mafia" preying upon foreign tourists in the Pham Ngu Lao backpacker area of District 1, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam. Never accept invitations from people on the street in Saigon, Nha Trang, Hanoi, Phnom Penh or frankly, other cities in the area. These people offer friendly invitations that have led to drugging, kidnapping and extortion.

Could They Have Already Killed Someone? Saigon's Filipino Blackjack Mafia

2011-05-04T16:40:00.000+07:00

As more and more tourists complain about being drugged by Saigon's Filipino Mafia after accepting one of their dinner and coffee invitations--it dawns on me that they may have already done their worst and nobody ever noticed. I always said that one of these days they are going to kill somebody. Someone's kids, in their gap year, young, naive, outgoing and yes, a little stupid, are going to go with them, and at just the right time do something unexpected, something threatening... and then we will all read about somebody's dead australian (or British or american or [insert nationality here] teen, found bloated and lifeless, floating in the river. I expected it would create a big commotion. Everyone would be crying about the fact that it was so tragic because we all knew the danger these criminals pose, and this senseless murder could have been prevented so easily.

Well, what if it's already happened and none of us realized it? It's occurred to me that over a last year there are more and more stories of drug overdose in Pham Ngu Lao. We've all heard them. Young foreigner with lots of potential just gets here--be they backpacker or expat--and now dead suddenly. No autopsy but the verdict is pronounced "drug overdose". Don't get me wrong--I know there are plenty of drugs for sale in Pham Ngu Lao--walk down the street at night and all the moto drivers will whisper their merchandise... but nonetheless--Its something that needs to be investigated. If they are indeed regularly drugging their victims, as is being claimed, and there are potentially several victims in a given day, eventual homicide is inevitable.

Royal Honeymoon Asia

2011-05-02T18:27:00.001+07:00

There was a big surprise over the weekend when the palace announced, seemingly at the last minute, that Price William and his bride Kate would postpone their honeymoon. It ended a lot of ridiculous speculation by the media about where the couple would be spending their honeymoon--in such outlandish locations as Kenya, the Virgin Islands and Lizard Island, off Australia.

There was also speculation that they may have been planning to head to Jordan for their honeymoon. If there was any truth at all to that, then I would guess it was postponed because the UK government was made aware of the impending attack on the Osama bin Laden compound, and so the UK government advised the royals to postone in case of any terrorist reprisals while they were there.

However, I think the press had it all wrong on the royal honeymoon locations. After all, why trust a bunch of drive-by journalists and paparazzi when it comes to expert honeymoon travel advice?

Thats where I come in. You learn a few things over the course of working on 20 guidebooks.

There is perhaps a very vague Jordan connection to all this, but it really has nothing to do with Kate's schooling in Jordan--well, not directly that is. But make no mistake, the honeymoon won't be in Jordan.

I happen to know some exotic resort spots favored by the royals in Asia--which aren't on the media's radar--and I have a good guess which one they might choose. While I'm not going come out and cough up the country or the name of the resort directly--I have no desire to drive them away, nor ruin their honeymoon by throwing the paparazzi at them--I am however considering dropping a few hints and posting a few discreet photos of the resort. Once the honeymoon is over, if I am right, then those hints and photos will be crystal clear... stay tuned

Dalat Wildlife Raids on Twitter Today

2011-04-29T23:37:00.001+07:00

confiscated stuffed gibbon and baby langurs

Today 100 rangers from across the province of Lam Dam came together in a coordinated raid of restaurants and shops selling protected and endangered wildlife in the Central Highlands city of Dalat, Vietnam.

Scott Roberton Ph.D, the Country Representative of the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) - Vietnam Program, tweeted the progress of the city-wide raids, live on the internet via the website Twitter. The presentation is perhaps the first of its kind—allowing observers to view photos of the items confiscated by law enforcement as teams reported back from their raids.

Primates seized in the raids included a gibbon and two juvenile Douc langurs, all seized from a single restaurant.

confiscated gaur horns

Other mammals seized included pangolin, mouse deer, wild pig, Elds deer, serow, muntjac, Civet, Bamboo rats, porcupine, and 3 sets of gaur horns (classified as critically endangered in Vietnam).
Additional animals seized by authorities included monitor lizard, a croc skin, and cages of wild doves.

Today is the one-year anniversary since Vietnam’s probably last Javan Rhino was found dead in Cat Tien, with its horn removed. Vietnam is at the center of the world's illegal trade in Rhino horn.

In total 89kg of wild meat was seized today, as well as more than 100 live animals, horns/antlers and stuffed primates. A total of 19 people were arrested and numerous restaurants and shops fined.

Dalat has a previous history of major wildlife problems

confiscated crocodile skin and deer horns

The city’s central market is well known for selling souvenir bear and leopard cat claws and teeth for tourists.

On August 26, the Lam Dong Forest Protection Department (FPD) seized more than 200 kilograms of illegal wildlife meat during a raid on 12 restaurants Dalat. About two-thirds of the meat was discovered at Tu Loan Restaurant, run by Tran Phuong Ha, who also owns a zoo in Da Lat.

confiscated live bamboo rats

Subsequent raids by FPD conducted on September 1 at 17 restaurants in Lam Dam Province, just west of Dalat, turned up around 30kg of wildlife meat and 12 live wild creatures, including one leopard cat.

TV not helping

Last year the American travel show “No Reservations” caused a local uproar when the show’s presenter ate mouse deer (chevrotain), a protected wild animal, just outside Dalat. The Travel Channel advertised the restaurant on its website. After being pressed on the incident the Travel Channel later agreed to remove the recommendation from its website, and said it would not air the episode again until it was significantly edited. However, the episode has remained available for download, unedited, on iTunes for quite some time.

Read about the killing of Beckham, an elephant in Dalat, on www.muinebeach.net.

Photos courtesy Scott Roberton, WCS.

Lonely Planet Warns of Vietnam's Filipino Mafia

2011-04-29T10:45:00.004+07:00

I stumbled upon Lonely Planet's December 2010 update to their most recent Vietnam guidebook (edition 10), and was surprised to find several warnings about the group which has come to be known as the Saigon Filipino [Blackjack] Mafia. As previously reported here, although the group seems to center their activity in Ho Chi Minh City, they also operate in Hanoi, Nha Trang, Danang and Phnom Penh.

Lonely Planet produces free updates between published editions, available online as PDFs. The updates are sent by readers and assembled by Lonely Planet in chronological order by relavent corresponding page number. Lonely Planet does not officially verify these updates, although I strongly suspect the writers are asked to fact check them when it comes time to update the next printed edition--in which they have a potential to be incorporated.

There are at least three posts on the mafia in the free update. Two are particularly troubling because they detail how the group drugs their victims (foreign tourists). A number of embassies have also warned that this group has been known to drug victims. I've quoted the relavent updates below:

"I would like to warn other travelers of a serious scam operating daily in Hanoi
Vietnam 2 days ago I lost all my money as well my camera. If you are approached
by a local they will ask you where you are from it doesn't matter what you say they
will then say that they have a sister going there next month and that she is very
nervous and would you like to meet with her and tell her all about the place where
she is going. The will take you home to meet the sister make an elaborate lunch
and have small talk for a while. The sister is well prepared with maps etc and
after lunch you will be given some vietnamese tea obviously spiked with i dont
know what but it knocks you out after one short sip (as it doesn't taste too hot)
when you come to you will realize that you still have your bum bag on but the
contents will be gone. Going to the police serves no purpose at all as they will just
laugh. ( i spent 7 hours in 3 different police stations). The police will not speak a
word of english or any other language for that matter so do not treat it as a serious
problem. They know it is going on on a daily basis but are doing nothing to stop it."

"Nha Trang scams: Unfortunatelly the Thai type scams have hit Vietnam too. One
of our friends met a man and a woman in a cafe. They took him to their house.
They gave him tea which he believes was drugged as the rest of the day was as if
he was in a dream. The card scam occurred. It involved a Japanese business man
and people from Saigon who were trying to get money off the Japanese man. The
woman escorted him to the money machine. After cleaning out $3,000 from his
credit card they took him back to the hotel. They told him they were going to fly him
out to the Philippines and he had to leave that night.. ( What that part is about we
are unsure). Our receptionist helped us by not letting any calls through to this man,
and we sneaked him to another hotel and got him out of town. He was scared stiff
and because of the drugs not thinking rationally. I have tried to contact the
embassies with my story but had no reply of acknowledgement. Please warn as
Vietnam people are generally concerned about this sort of stuff and there are not a
lot of bad apples"

Read the full update online here: http://bit.ly/l1Bh6f

Kon Tum Orphanage Needs Your Help

2011-04-28T19:08:00.001+07:00

Are you planning to visit Kon Tum (Vietnam Central Highlands, between Danang and Pleiku) soon? A private orphanage there needs your help. The orphanage is run by a group of adult brothers and sisters who were raised in the local Catholic orphanage and have devoted their lives to helping others. The family and children belong to various local minorities including Bahnar, Stieng and Jarai. Most (or perhaps still all) of the funding from the orphanage comes from private donations and the work the family does out int he fields.

The orphanage has 71 children at present. The local practice in the tribes, when a mother dies after childbirth, is to allow the baby to die as well and bury both together. A few of the children have been saved by the orphanage from this fate.

Ultimately the orphanage needs funding. One of their projects at the moment is to build a new schoolroom for studying and homework. They also welcome gifts of supplies. For more information, view my previous post with photos below. If you'd like to help them out, leave a post with your email address.

http://fisheggtree.blogspot.com/2009/07/kon-klor-2-village-orphanage-kon-tum.html

Filipino Blackjack Mafia now in Phnom Penh as well as Saigon

2011-04-28T18:46:00.000+07:00

Members of Saigon's obnoxious Filipino "blackjack mafia" have been reported operating their scam in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, as well as Saigon. They mostly appear to wait around the square in front of the Royal Palace and park near the History Museum. They will sit off to the side and when they see a lone tourist coming, walk out to start a casual conversation about the setting, or perhaps the people exercising in the square, or the victim's clothing. If the conversation goes well, then they will try to lure the victim to a secluded location.

Additionally, witnesses and victims have reported that this group is also running this scam in Hanoi, Danang and Nha Trang. The blight on Vietnam's tourism industry keeps spreading. One ray of hope in all this is that this is all the same group--thus they can all be linked together. It appears they are moving to other cities because the pressure on them is growing in Saigon.

Below are a few new photos of members of the group. As with any photos of these criminals on this blog, feel free to reprint, distribute and post them elsewhere (of course any other material here is copyrighted and needs permission to redistribute).

Tourist Testimonial on Filipino Con Artists in Saigon

2011-04-20T12:36:00.000+07:00

Below is a note from a traveler in Vietnam last month regarding the Filipino Mafia in Saigon. This is reprinted here with the permission of the author.
..................................................................................
An update on the "gambling scam" in Saigon.

It is going ballistic here, I have heard of 7 different incidents just THIS WEEK.

A guy I met here a couple of days ago told me his story and in HIS case they pulled a pistol on him.
This is big money we are talking here, so the stakes are high for these scum.
just 1 gang is probably fleecing tourists here for $25,000 USD in ONE WEEK.

The guy I mentioned above is on his way back to Europe as I type this, yesterday he went to the Gold Shop that the gang use and he took some happy snaps of the business and the lady that runs it.
He will be posting his story and pics here and other forums as a warning and to hopefully slow down the scums operations.

By the way, the gold shop is where the scum take their victims and force them to buy gold to pay for their "gambling loss". The gold shop is at An Dong Plaza in District 5

The scam is based in District 1 Ho Chi Minh City, they will approach in bars, restaurants, parks or on the streets, they are well spoken and HIGHLY organised.

There is a couple of girls involved also, to tempt the lone male traveller.
As of 1 hour ago I spotted the gang sitting in a Bia Hoi (beer house) on Bui Dien St District 1 , this is the heart of the backpacker area here.
This is the same Bia Hoi that 2 people I know have been sucked in just in the last week.
The Bia Hoi is about 200 metres from the police station where the scam has been reported many times.
These scum are so brazen its mind boggling, mainly due to the fact that they keep getting away with it.

Anyway, be warned, at least 1 of the gangs has a gun and they are not afraid to use it to get what they want.

Oh yeah I forgot to mention, they also use a drug (something like rohypnol) ..they dont want to knock you out, just want to dope you up so you cant think straight, they will put it in your drink or food if you go to their house... they dont do this everytime (I have been there) but they will use the drug and/or the gun, depending on how the scam is panning out for them.

Please Uncle Ho, give us The Hobbit

2011-04-15T09:24:00.008+07:00

Dear Uncle Ho,

As you may remember, you turned off our access to Facebook in Vietnam quite some time ago. First we speculated it was for political reasons. Then later, we began to think it was economic. Today I think I finally discovered the real reason: you don’t like hobbits.

You see, I didn’t even know Peter Jackson began filming The Hobbit already, until I saw the Tweet today. I’ll bet you saw it too. Nothing gets by you.

When I heard filming had begun and Peter Jackson had a new Facebook page, I raced to get on the site and see the new photos and production diary video.

Instead though, I got the same old browser error. What’s more, none of the popular work-arounds, trying as hard as I might, could get me on PJ’s Facebook page.

I know you began blocking the site back in 2009, so this may seem implausible to some. But I think you’ve been following all the pre-production hurdles in the Hobbit saga too, and were just getting prepared for the eventuality of filming. In your wisdom you knew that we’d all want to get on Facebook and see what Peter Jackson and his band was up to. The social evils of nasty little hobbitses became an issue that threatened the stability of your national unity block.

I’m writing to you to try to change your mind about Hobbits. If you only knew the truth, I think you’d like them too.

You see, Hobbits are all about class struggle. They fight insurmountable odds to unite the underclasses and thwart the colonial imperialist, Sauron.

Hobbits are much like our country folk—they love Bia Hoi (fresh beer), tobacco, afternoon naps, good food, they have a uncanny knack for keeping track of their distant cousins for generations—and they are also short.

Peter Jackson’s films are full of symbolism. The stars in Galadriel’s eyes ignite nationalist fervor. The orcs—look closely—carry hammers and sickles. Smaug the dragon shows us the evils of capitalism and the bourgeoisie as he holds all the riches of the people and confounds the means of production.

In the Lord of the Rings, like the Party Central Comittee, is found fantastic leadership, though sometimes it loses its revolutionary spirit. The Politburo, or rather the Council of Elrond, meets some struggles when members chase individualism, or rather the power of the ring.

In the end, the task of Frodo the Hobbit is to destroy the symbol of capitalist imperialism: the ring of Sauron. And as we all know, Frodo succeeds, uniting the workers in a collective of peace and equality. Frodo is the Vladimir Lenin of Middle Earth.

Please dear Uncle, Hobbits are good for Vietnam—we can learn a lot from Frodo, Bilbo and that greatest of all communes, the Shire. Please give us back Facebook. Let us rejoin the adventures of Peter Jackson. Please Uncle Ho, give us The Hobbit.

Mui Ne Beach Gossip: Look What’s Washing Up

2011-04-14T10:27:00.005+07:00

A couple of weeks ago Mui Ne’s midsection suffered another bout of serious erosion and lost a bit of its beachfront.

We’ve all seen what washes up on a regular basis—piles of garbage, bags and bags of old cloths, medical waste, dead animals, fruit rinds… need I say more?

This time a local property found something a bit more unusual. By all accounts, it looked like a UXO, or rather a grenade of some sort.

The local police were called, who referred the situation to the army. A few members of the army did arrive but the object in question was thrown back into the ocean – definitely not what had been expected to happen!

At the time there was genuine concern about somebody on the beach finding it and something terrible happening (if in fact it was an explosive devise).

Given the fact it was a Saturday (and the Army don’t apparently operate on weekends) it was obviously a lot faster for them to throw it back in the water and pretend to forget about it then remove it properly.

Its nobody’s fault that this object washed up where it did, whatever it was. The handling of it seems rather inappropriate however.

Look Mommy, Tommy Glows in the Dark!

There’s been much discussion in the Vietnamese media, thankfully, about the Titanium mining controversy in this province. It’s my understanding from what I’ve read, and I might not be entirely correct, that all large building projects on the coast must first have their land surveyed for mining potential. So much for a province that supposedly puts its tourism industry first.

The local papers have talked about some of the problems the mining has caused—it has brought about the delay or outright cancelation of more than one resort project.

The miners have also allegedly (according to newspapers) destroyed the water table in what was the most fragile and arid ecosystem in Southeast Asia by pumping seawater into the very limited groundwater supply. Now families must be relocated because there is no more groundwater where this has been done (and the mining covers kilometers and kilometers of coastline).

While news stories make vague references to additional pollutants, nobody ever gets specific about what these pollutants are. A search finally turned up a few things.

Titanium mining releases radiation into the environment. Specifically, the sands where titanium is found tend to also include Uranium, thorium, and radium. I don’t have any data on just how radioactive titanium sludge might be from local mining, but online sources such as the US Environmental Protection Agency seem to suggest high levels of radiation from Titanium mining wastes can be up to 450 times more radioactive than “normal” soil samples. However radioactive the mining around Mui Ne might be, I think it would be a good idea to do some testing and inform the public.

Swimming in a Milkshake

Again, most of us living in Mui ne have seen the wastewater being pumped onto the beach by a variety of resorts, bars and restaurants. Most of it is just grey water—the stuff washed out of sinks and showers. Occasionally, as I think we all know, it is raw sewage—especially the stuff that’s pumped into the bushes across the street when septic tanks get full.

Not to be outdone however is the Ca Ty River in Phan Thiet. This year—or was it last year—on two separate occasions the national newspapers posted photos of our dirty river and all the sludge floating out to the bay.

I was disgusted to find a study posted online, commissioned by the government about 5-6 years ago, of all the urban rivers along Vietnam’s coast. The study included data on coliform and ecoli counts. Counts for coliform were in the tens of millions. If I’m not mistaken, a mere 300 in many western countries is enough to shut a beach down.

This isn’t to say our beach has levels like that. There’s some distance between the Ca Ty River and Mui ne (It does probably suggest that Doi Duong Municipal Beach in Phan Thiet should be roped off). However Mui Ne should be tested immediately… and lets just say that previous anomalies in water testing at the “official” lab in Phan Thiet suggest water should be tested by an independent source outside the area.

Heads in the Sand

All of this going on and nothing being done about it. There was a National Geographic Traveler magazine article a few months that rated Mui Ne and Nha Trang as “one of the world’s worst beaches” (as thought Nha Trang and Mui Ne aren’t 6hrs apart—or any of the judges has ever even been to Vietnam). It definitely ruffled the feathers of officials in Nha Trang. They are reacting, though we can debate whether their plans help or do more harm than good. Curiously however, Binh Thuan didn’t make so much as a peep about the article. One wonders how bad the pollution has to get before we decide to do something.

Western Media Telling the Wrong Story of Bob Dylan’s Vietnam Visit

2011-04-10T12:06:00.002+07:00

As every expat in Vietnam should know by now, Bob Dylan is performing tonight in Saigon. By now most of us who have taken interest in Bob Dylan’s visit to Vietnam have seen the stories in both Vietnam and US media, recounting his allegedly renowned discography of anti-Vietnam-War songs. Stories in major newspapers portray Dylan’s visit to Vietnam as a homecoming of sorts—“he’s coming full circle.”

In response, many of us have uncovered and discussed the fact that the claims by the media have largely been unfounded. Digging a little deeper, one finds that Dylan’s protest songs were pointed toward cold war issues between the US and Soviet Union or other issues. In fact, Dylan remained silent on the issue of the Vietnam War.

This doesn’t in any way undermine the importance of his visit or the historical nature of it all. Dylan did have profound influence on the US protest movement, and his music was indeed used as anthems by his listeners, regardless of the original intent of the lyrics.

The real story about this event is that in Bob Dylan we have a champion of American free speech and free expression, and one of the most influential people in American Folk music who is now visiting Vietnam—a country which was until recently, closed to western performers.

Dylan’s visit marks a new openness, a new way forward in Vietnamese society, and a milestone in Vietnam’s music scene.

This year, together with visits from the Backstreet Boys, South Korea’s Super Junior, and rumors of other bands like Linkin Park coming, Vietnam has suddenly emerged from irrelevance to potentially becoming a major player in the Southeast Asian Music scene.

This is good not only for Vietnamese music enthusiasts and local musicians themselves (who will have new opportunities to gain inspiration and grown, as well as perform in tandem), but also the nation as a whole, which will benefit from the new exchange of ideas.

But then lets not get ahead of ourselves. Our champion of free speech still had to submit a song list and lyrics, which he cannot deviate from, in order to obtain permission to perform in Vietnam. Vietnam has come a long way, but its still not 1960s US. There is also much debate on whether Dylan will [be able to] offer any significant commentary during the performance.

Regardless, go be a part of history and see Bob.

Lonely Planet Sightings in Mui Ne

2011-04-10T11:34:00.000+07:00

There were a couple sightings of Lonely Planet writer Nick Ray in Mui Ne this week. Did you meet him?... and more importantly, did you show your best side this week at your restaurant, resort, shop or tour company? You better have, because you may not have another opportunity to impress Lonely Planet for perhaps two more years. He's already left town, so I'm told.

Guidebooks send their writers out about every 2 (or 3 years) to survey Vietnam. This year happens to be the year nearly all the publishers are researching their next Vietnam editions, which will appear on shelves in late 2011 or early/mid 2012. I'm not sure why they all do countries at the same time--perhaps its with the hope of getting their newest edition on the shelves just before the others each time, and just ahead of tourist season.I know they are all doing it now because I'm writing or updating nearly all of the other internationally-available guidebooks for Vietnam.

I've not met Nick myself yet, but I hear he's a nice guy. If you had a polite, sandy-blonde-haired british chap visit your establishment, who lives in Phnom Penh, and from what I've seen fancies wearing Khmer Kramas, you may just be lucky enough to get your placed reviewed in Lonely Planet.

As for getting yourself in all the other books, well, if you don't think I've been around to your place in a while, it might not hurt to give me a shout and remind me.

Mui Ne & Nha Trang Beach Hospitality Property Gossip

2011-04-05T20:29:00.005+07:00

Many of Mui Ne's original businesses will be running to the end of their leases over the next two years. Its no surprise. Mui Ne's getting older. The prices in rent might shock however. Rumor has it that some properties will increase their monthly rent by factors of 10-12, compared to previous leases.

On to brands. One new international hotel brand is coming to Mui Ne this year. Another well-known brand is leaving. A third is changing its name.

The City of Nha Trang is rumored to be making major changes to the beachfront that will forever alter the character of the city. Perhaps its a reaction to National Geographic. But is it a step in the right--or the wrong--direction? Goodbye Nha Trang as we knew it.

Feel free to post speculations about what I'm referring to in the comments below. I might be able to confirm one or two things if you are correct, but others will have to wait...

One I can confirm: Sankara changed management and much of the staff recently. Best wishes to the previous team and the new one. It's undoubtedly a tough transition for the new management, as Sankara, along with its neighbors, lost a big chunk of its beachfront very suddenly. Fortunately the seas have settled down so folks can catch their breath and repair damages.

Another Filipino Con Artist Update

2011-04-04T21:51:00.000+07:00

Great post from September last year, with a couple photos of Saigon's Filipino con artists:
http://owee58.com/2010/09/27/a-vietnamese-funeral/
These are criminals which I have seen before but not yet photographed. Kudos to Owee58.

I was also just shown this warning on the US State Department's travel website:

"Some scams target tourists. Specifically, tourists have been victims of gambling scams in the Pham Ngu Lao neighborhood of Ho Chi Minh City. This scam usually starts with a friendly invitation to someone’s home to meet a relative interested in visiting or studying in the U.S. While waiting for this individual, a casual game of cards will start. Victims have reported starting the game with only a small wager but losing thousands of dollars over the course of an evening. Be aware that gambling outside of licensed casinos is illegal in Vietnam."

http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1060.html

You can see more at the link above.

US State Department issues Travel Warning Due to Violent Crimes Against Foreigners in Vietnam

2011-04-02T22:14:00.002+07:00

The US Embassy in Hanoi on Thursday issues a Warden Message “to alert U.S. citizens living in, or traveling to Vietnam that there are numerous reports of home invasions, robberies, and assaults against the ex-pat community, including what appears to be an uptick of activity during the last several weeks in Ho Chi Minh City.”

The bulletin went on to elaborate “During the last 7 months the Mission has received reports and verified numerous instances of pick-pocketing, bag snatches, and residential break-ins targeting the expatriate community. Additionally, two residential guards of an ex-pat compound were found murdered while on duty. “

Additionally they stated “The U.S Embassy in Hanoi and the U.S. Consulate in Ho Chi Minh City also reminds U.S. citizens that there have been acts of extreme violence in local nightspots frequented by ex-pats, including District 1. “

I am aware of the general situation and increase in crime in Saigon and Hanoi, however the double-murder was news to me. As many people know, I have been reporting on the situation of Saigon’s Filipino Mafia. It is unknown whether any of the incidents referenced by the embassy involved this group yet.

The US State Department releases Warden Messages sporadically. The last message on the US Embassy to Hanoi website was in October of 2010. This warning has not yet been posted online and was sent via email, directly from the embassy.

The Durian Addict

2011-03-27T21:25:00.000+07:00

Warning, graphic depiction follows.

I ate a 4-kilo (9-pound) durian all by myself tonight. It was like ripping into the womb of a long-dead reptilian alien and eating the rotten, yet sweet and creamy fetus… with a hint of custard, garlic and almonds. I'm not sure how or even what made me do it. But I'm already regretting it 30 minutes later, along with everyone in sensory range. Its like giving birth to twin dragons that are already flame-throwing before they even clear the womb. Its like the Wizard of Oz when it changes from black and white to technicolor, with James Cameron 3D and George Lucas THX surround sound. If you were here, I'll bet you could taste it too.

…and I'll bet tomorrow I'll do it all over again.

All-New Filipino Con Artists in Saigon: The Pham Ngu Lao Gang

2011-03-27T14:12:00.000+07:00

The Photos below are of well-known Filipino con artists who have been stalking tourists in Saigon for several years. This is the first time many of them have been photographed, however. These photos are taken from their regular morning gatherings in the part across from the intersection of Pham Ngu Lao and De Tham Streets in District 1, HCMC. Disturbingly, security guards are usually standing right next to them.

The man on the left is believed to be this man, previously photographed. Both men may be ringleaders.

The gal in red is this lady, previous filmed on undercover video.

The fellow who's face is turned away from the camera is none other than this young new recruit.

Click here to learn more about the scams that this Filipino mafia is running in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

3 Filipino Mafia On Trial in Hanoi

2011-03-27T12:21:00.001+07:00

As of May 2010 these three Filipino con artists were on trial in Hanoi for extortion. I've decided to post their photos here, since we know from previous experience, there is a high likelihood that they will just be released and allowed to scam tourists in Hanoi or Saigon once again. There is some indication that mafia members transfer operations between Hanoi and Saigon once their faces or identity become well known in either city. Left to right: Augustina Ero Balleza (daughter, born 1966), Eduardo Bautista Ramirez (son, born 1968) and Eduardo Bautista Manaloto (father, born 1946). Due to the misguided Vietnamese habit of re-arranging first, middle and last names of foreigners, there is some confusion of name orders for each individual. Read more about them here.

Backstreet Boys Concert Photos, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

2011-03-25T11:21:00.002+07:00

Below are photos from the Backstreet Boys concert last night in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. They will be performing in Hanoi tomorrow night so you folks up there can probably expect something very similar. Songs were a mix of old favorites and new.

Also: Check out my story for CNNgo...

Backstreet Boys: Shooting AK47s in Vietnam is Awesome.

Exclusive: Backstreet Boys Talk Details of Next Album from HCMC Vietnam

2011-03-24T20:11:00.004+07:00

Backstreet Boys' AJ McLean, Nick Carter and Howie Dorough.
As everybody knows, the Backstreet Boys are in Vietnam right now, getting to perform their first concert ever in Ho Chi Minh City tonight, as we speak.

I attended their very exclusive press conference yesterday in Saigon, where they talked about the album they plan to record this fall.

“I think we just wanna go back to what we’re really known for and what we are good at, which is pop R&B, great harmonies, great vocals,” said AJ McLean.

“We are hoping to get back in the studio this coming fall and really make the most amazing record possible,” he said.

“We’ve been talking about working with some old producers as well as some new producers, as well as be really hands on with this next album, as far as writing, producing, really kind of taking the control back.”

Backstreet Boys' AJ McLean
AJ continued, “Ever since we’ve parted ways with our record label we now have complete creative control.”

“This next process is really going to be something special from all of us. So hopefully once the album’s done it will be a real work of art.”

Speaking of former band member Kevin Richardson, AJ said that Kevin and the guys were all on good terms, and the door was always open for him to sing with them, stating it was always possible but they didn’t know whether it would happen.

Backstreet Boys Nick Carter on Fishing in Vietnam

2011-03-23T15:55:00.000+07:00

Here Nick Carter from the Backstreet Boys talks about fishing this week out in the Vietnam Countryside. Nick is here with the group for their "This is Us" Tour and will be performing in Ho Chi Minh City tomorrow night.

Backstreet Boys Nick Carter on the War Museum, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

2011-03-23T15:38:00.000+07:00

Nick Carter from the Backstreet Boys March 2011 "This Is Us" Tour talks about his visit to the War Atrocities Museum in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. This comes from an official press conference at the Park Hyatt Hotel in District 1, Saigon this morning. Stay tuned for more photos, videos and info.